Three Christmas grower Champagnes. Quite lovely.

Champagne R&L Legras Présidence Vieilles Vignes Brut Grand Cru Chouilly 2007 France
Low dosage of 5 g/l, Blanc de Blancs. Very stylish, fresh, lemony and creamy with subtle toast. Very fine and linear with a bit of depth but also lovely purity and complexity. Fabulous stuff. 94/100 (Lea & Sandeman stock this for £45.95; Berry Bros & Rudd have it for £50)

Champagne Savart l’Ouverture NV France
100% Pinot Noir, 7 g/litre dosage, disgorged July 2015. Ecuil 1er Cru. Fruity and rounded with nice apples and pears. Attractive with some subtle oxidative notes and a lively apple and citrus fruitiness on the palate. Primary and fruity with a youthful feel, this is really good. 91/100 (£30 Roberson)

Champagne Jacques Selosse Initial Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs NV France
This is a Blanc de Blancs from three successive harvests, and from three Grand Cru sites: Avize, Cramant and Oger. Disgorged May 2012. Tremendously rich and vinous, and well integrated. Pear, ripe apple, spice and a hint of honey with nice citrus fruit, too, as well as white peach. Textured and complex and broad, this is showing incredible balance and complexity. So distinctive. 95/100

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