Friday night represents a chance to open something nice. And Champagne is always a good start. Yes, this is infanticide, but the Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 2007 was staring at me, and as this is such a beautiful bottle, I couldn’t resist. I was expecting it to be tight and unyielding, but it actually delivered a lot of pleasure. So balanced and fine, it’s OK to drink it now, but given a couple more years of relatively careful cellaring and it will be so lovely. And it will, of course, last a lot longer than this.

It’s a blend of 50% Chardonnay from the grands crus of Cramant and Avize, and 45% Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims, plus 5% Pinot Meunier from Dizy. Matured for six years on the lees with a dosage of 9g/l.

Champagne Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 2007 France
12.5% alcohol. Very fresh, fine and expressive with lovely density and focused citrus and white peach fruit. There’s subtle toast and good acidity, and it balances richness with brightness and focus. A beautifully poised, expressive wine with real precision and purity. 94/100 (£125 Harvey Nichols, Fortnum & Mason)

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