This was an interesting excercise. The same NV Champagne – the excellent Charles Heidsieck – from disgorgements seven years apart. The older bottled had been professionally cellared in the interim. The younger wine was laid in the cellar in 2008 and disgorged in 2012; the younger laid in the cellar in 2001 and disgorged in 2005. Heidsieck uses a high proportion of reserve wines (40%), many of which are over 10 years old.
Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve NV
2012 disgorgement. Profound, with fresh toasty, lemony notes, and lovely pear and peach flavours. With some toast and nut complexity, and great acidity, this is focused and alive. 93/100
Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve NV
2005 disgorgement. Full yeallow/gold colour. A hint of mushroom on the nose, as well as nice toastiness, and notes of almonds and nuts. Sweet crystalline fruits and some fresher citrus characters, with lovely precision. 92/100
I’ve been hoping that you’d put these into your New Year’s champagne tasting for ages. I’m surprised you preferred the younger bottling. Do you think the later disgorgement will improve with time in the cellar? I mentioned to someone on CT, that I buy Heidsieck NV to lay down and the vintage, to drink now. (Obviously the reverse of how I buy from most champagne houses.)
Interestingly, these bubblies both came from my cellar. I enjoy laying down (good) NV’s and drinking them 5 – 10 years later.
Without doubt, the current NV offering is a babe; very fine structure, and has the ability to improve for at least 5+ years, and then hold its own for another 5+ years. V smart.
The latest release is the new and improved version and is really great. It is based on 2007 vintage. Thats really amazing age for a 30-35 pound NV.
A few months ago I tried the version based on 2002 (mise en cave 2003) and disgorged in 2006. It was wonderful! I would dare compare this to a perfect DOM PERIGNON 1990 that I tasted this summer.
95 points! (I gave the DOM P 96 pts)