This is an impressive Champagne for the price. Made by the CRVC (www.crvc.fr) a cooperative, this spends six years on lees, which is a long time for an NV Champagne.

Champagne Castelnau Réserve NV France
£28 The Wine Society
12.5% alcohol
40% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier, one-fifth reserve wines. 8 g/litre dosage. This is unusual for a wine at this price in that it has been aged for six years on its lees. It’s fine and toasty with nice freshness. Citrussy and taut with some bready notes, and faint hints of cheese and fine herbs, as well as a hint of apricot and some almond nuttiness. Lovely intensity here: it’s rich but not too rich. 91/100