On my last day in San Francisco I met up with Blake Edgar, editor at University of California Press (who have published 3 of my books). It was a beautiful day, so we sat outside at the Market Bar restaurant in the Ferry Building. I’d brought along a decent bottle of Champagne in the hope that they’d allow us to open it, and they did for a fair-enough corkage fee of $25. I’m not sure Blake is used to drinking at lunchtime, but it was a beautiful bottle that exceeded my expectations.

Champagne Agrapart Terroirs Extra Brut Granc Cru Blanc de Blancs NV
This is fabulous. It’s half Avize, with the rest from Cramant, Oger and Oiry, and the dosage is 5 g/litre. Complex, taut, fresh with lovely weight and nice density to the citrussy fruit. It’s not at all austere: there’s a fruit richness and purity here, as well as subtle toastiness and nice structure. A lovely fizz. 94/100

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