Gatinois, based in Aÿ, have 7.5 hectares of Grand Cru vineyards spread across 29 plots. They sell half their grapes to Bollinger and other grand marques, but father and son team Pierre and Louis Cheval-Gatinois also make their own wine, including this NV, which is 90% Pinot Noir with the balance Chardonnay. This spends at least three years on the lees, and as with many grower Champagnes, it’s superb value.
Champagne Gatinois Aÿ Grand Cru Brut Tradition NV France
12% alcohol. Full yellow colour. Aromatic nose with ripe apples and herbs, showing lovely richness but not sacrificing refinement. The palate has apples, cherries and some lemons, with subtle nuts and toast, too. Lovely complexity and depth here. A refined, slightly oxidative style of real appeal. 93/100 (£28.20 Haynes, Hanson & Clark)
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