Sunday lunch doesn’t come much better than this. It was a chance to drink some lovely Burgundies with epic food from one of London’s most talked about restaurants, the Clove Club in Shoreditch, at an event organized by hipster wine magazine Noble Rot.
It was an interesting crowd, too – a mix of Noble Rot readers and Clove Club regulars. My dining companions were super nice and easy to talk to, and because we were all here with a common purpose, and the food and wine was so good, the atmosphere was great.
This was my first visit to the Clove Club – I know, I know, I should have been lots of times before – and so I was really curious about the food. It’s one of the few restaurants that’s brave enough to offer a no choice menu: for dinner, you get five courses for £55, with optional wine pairing for another £45. Lunch gives you the option of three courses (£35) or five. This is the way high end restaurants should work, if their customers trust them enough.
The food was beautifully done – creative, inventive, not over busy, and well matched to the wines. The most interesting dish was the raw orkney scallop, hazelnut, sudachi and perigord truffle (above), which didn’t look too good (raw mushrooms aren’t pretty, alas), but it tasted amazing.
Honorary mentions must go to the first and last of the food items – buttermilk fried chicken and pine salt (amazing texture) and the three peated barley cakes (remarkable, and a perfect match for islay whisky I suspect).
Dry aged wood pigeon with wild plum and salted cherry blossom
Sauteed French rabbit, chestnut, brussel tops and Burgundy truffle
Veloute of potatoes, Abbaye de Tamie, snails and parsley
Domaine Leroy Aligoté 2010 Burgundy, France
Full yellow colour. Slightly salty and nutty with a bit of herbiness. Really appealing lemony fruit with a stony character and slight honey notes. Distinctive. 92/100
Jacques Carillon Puligny Montrachet 2012 Burgundy, France
Very fresh and pure with linear citrus fruit and a faint toastiness, with a mineral core. Pure and fine with lovely focus. 93/100
Etienne Sauzet Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières 2007 Burgundy, France
Powerful, nutty and intense with toast, nuts and citrus, as well as generous white peach fruit. Bold but bolstered by lovely acidity. Delicious current drinking. 94/100
Domaine Pierre Guillemot Savigny-Lès- Beaune 2009 Burgundy, France
Sweet, fresh red cherry and berry fruit with lovely perfume and a savoury, grippy edge. There’s an undercurrent of cedar/clove spiciness. 92/100
Domaine Lafarge Volnay 2008 Burgundy, France
Pure and floral with lovely fine red cherries and a hint of rose petal. Juicy and bright raspberry and red cherry fruit with lemony acidity. Very pure and linear with keen acidity and a real raspberry kick. 92/100
Fourrier Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes 2006 Burgundy, France
Silky smooth, ripe and textured with lovely grainy structure under the fresh cherry and plum fruit, with some soy sauce notes in the background. Textured and smooth. 94/100
Domaine L&A Lignier Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2008 Burgundy, France
Juicy, bright, savoury and grippy with nice acidity under the raspberry and black cherry fruit. Grippy with high acidity. A juicy cherry fruit finish: very bright and a bit cedary. Very 2008. 92/100
Domaine de Courcel Pommard 1er Cru Epenots 1988 Burgundy, France
Savoury, earthy, iodine, spice, minerals: this is a delicious fully mature Burgundy. It has some plum and berry fruits, but it’s quite savoury with focused acidity and some earthy characters. Detailed and fine. 94/100