These wines were recently tasted at a rather fine lunch at La Trompette, which is a great restaurant. It went on a long time, as you can imagine. I’m always struck by how well older bottles of top Bordeaux show in these situations, and how inconsistent red Burgundy can be. And the Rhône can be very strong, when it’s the right people making the wine.

François Cotat Chavignol La Grande Côte 1992 Loire, France
This has aged beautifully. Lovely grapefruit, herbs, tangerine and some sweet crystalline fruits. Still very bright and precise with nice maturity. Fabulous stuff. 94/100

Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc De L’Orée 2003 Northern Rhône, France
Mature, toasty and creamy with nice texture to the pear and peach fruit with some bold melony richness. Quite mellow with richness, texture and a spicy finish. 93/100

Faiveley Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 1995 Burgundy, France
Lovely aromatics: taut, spice blackberries and black cherry fruit. Grippy, spicy, vivid palate which is tannic and bold. A fresh, intense red Burgundy that’s detailed and taut, but not ready yet. 93/100

Ponsot Chappelle Chambertin Grand Cru 2000 Burgundy, France
Rich, warm and spicy with real density, and some subtle savoury soy sauce notes as well as hints of tar and spice. Grippy and fresh, and quite savoury. 93/100

Rossignol Trapet Latricières Chambertin Grand Cru 1998 Burgundy, France
Very appealing with meaty, spicy characters alongside elegant cherry and raspberry fruit. Detailed with hints of iodine, meat and spice under the sleek fruit. Very interesting. 94/100

Château Pichon Baron 1988 Pauillac, Bordeaux, France
Slightly lifted nose with lovely gravelly, spicy, blackcurrant fruit. Fresh and gravelly with lovely fruit. So stylish and detailed: a  beautiful wine drinking well now. 95/100

Château Haut Brion 1988 Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France
Superbly elegant with supple blackberry and black cherry fruit. Really elegant with supple, smooth black fruits and some gravelly structure. Real finesse and depth. 96/100

Château Haut-Bailly 1995 Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France
Gravelly black cherry and blackberry fruit with nice spice and grip. Lovely weight. Nice grip and some blackcurrant bud character. Rich. 94/100

Chave Hermitage 1997 Northern Rhône, France
Iodine, blood, minerals, black cherries and plums. This is just so northern Rhône in character. Really fresh red fruits with lots of detail and a hint of pepper. 95/100

Domaine de Solitude Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve 2000 Rhône, FranceWarm, spicy and earthy with some tarry detail. Smooth and sweet and quite complex with nice grip and lovely fruit. Very stylish. 94/100

Clos des Papes Châteauneuf du Pape 2000 Rhône, France
Fresh with lovely black cherry and plum fruit as well as some savoury, bloody, meaty notes. Nice freshness with some savoury grip under the sweet black fruits. 93/100

Loosen Wehlenher Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 1989 Mosel, GermanyVery fresh and intense with bright citrus fruit. Nice precision to this stylish, rather delicate wine with herbs and pith notes. Still pretty youthful. 93/100

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