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Tasting
notes of Argentine wines
(Prices and stockists in the UK are
listed in brackets; as a rough guide £1 = US$1.60. Date of tasting is
indicated at the end of each note as month/year)
See also:
- Report
on a visit to Mendoza, Argentina's leading wine region
- Malbec
from Argentina: 45 wines tried
- Achaval Ferrer,
Mendoza
- Bodega el
Fin del Mundo, Patagonia
- Fabre Montmayou,
Mendoza
- Valentin
Bianchi, Mendoza
- Luis Correas,
Mendoza, Argentina
- Septima, Mendoza
- Ricardo
Santos, Mendoza
- Finca el Retiro,
Mendoza
- Alta Vista,
Mendoza
- Viñas de Altura,
Argentina
- Spotlight on
the wines of Argentina
Familia Schroeder Alpatico Chardonnay 2007
Patagonia, Argentina
Broad, aromatic peachy nose with some vanilla notes. The palate is
quite fat with melon, peach and apricot notes as well as some bready,
toasty oak influence. Quite a rich, stylish Chardonnay. 87/100 (Waitrose;
13%) 01/09
Vinalba Malbec
Reserva 2006 Mendoza, Argentina
Deep coloured. Amazingly
sweetly fruited, alluring nose with very ripe blackberries and a hint of
blackcurrant jam. The palate is lush and sweet with ripe, dense, pure
fruit and some savoury, spicy notes. Lots of impact here: a dense, full,
sweet red wine with lovely purity of fruit and real flavour impact. It's
unashamedly new world in style and will be sure to win lots of fans.
90/100 (£9.99 Majestic) 02/09
Benegas Finca
Libertad 2005 Mendoza, Argentina
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (55%), Cabernet Franc (32%)
and Merlot (13%). Michel Rolland is the consultant winemaker here, and
there's some similarity in style to the Clos de Los Siete, but that's
not necessarily a bad thing. It shows lovely, smooth, refined pure
blackberry fruit with some plummy notes, as well as spicy new oak. It's
rich and modern, but not totally over-the-top. As well as the sweet
fruit, there are notes of chocolate, coffee and spice, and I reckon it
could age quite nicely over the next few years. 90/100 (£12.99 Virgin
Wines) 01/09
Alamos Cabernet
Sauvignon 2007 Mendoza, Argentina
This is a really impressive inexpensive red. The nose
shows sweet, pure red berry and blackberry fruit. The palate is smooth
and refined with accessible blackberry and blackcurrant fruit which
flirts with jamminess but stays fresh and well defined. A lovely easy
drinker. 87/100 (£7.07 Bibendum, on sale at £5.49 3-13 February) 01/09
Nicolas Catena
Zapata 2005 Argentina
Approximately two-thirds Cabernet and one-third Malbec,
this is a serious effort from one of Argentina's top producers. A
concentrated, dark coloured wine it is currently extremely oaky: on
opening, there's a big waft of vanilla and spice, along with ripe, sweet
blackberry and blackcurrant fruit. After a while, this oak subsides a
little, revealing more interesting floral and mineral notes under the
super-ripe fruit. The palate is dense, smooth, ripe and rich with
concentrated sweet fruits and some smooth but spicy tannic structure
hiding underneath it. Currently quite oak dominated, all the ingredients
are here for a long, graceful evolution. Don't open this now, but in
five, ten or fifteen years, I reckon it will be quite special. It's 'new
world' in style, and I'd probably prefer a little less ripeness, but
it's serious. 93/100 (Bibendum) 01/09
Clos de los Siete 2007 Mendoza, Argentina
A blend of 48% Malbec, 28% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Syrah,
harvested from the end of March until the end of April. Deep coloured,
this has lovely floral aromatics together with ripe but not jammy summer
fruit aromas. There's a bit of spice, too. The palate is nicely poised
with sweet but well defined dark fruits and good acidity. This isn't
jammy or super-ripe, which is a good thing. But the alcohol (14.5%) is
evident, and the tannins are a little drying and grippy in the mouth,
and they clamp down the finish somewhat. It's a beautifully packaged
wine that offers great value for money, and without those rather drying
tannins it would get a higher rating. 90/100 (£10.99 Waitrose,
Majestic, Oddbins) 09/08
Landelia Malbec ‘Single
Vineyard’ 2005 Agrelo, Mendoza
A bit of a bargain this: it’s a dense, dark, fruit driven Malbec
of real poise, with some purity to the sweet dark fruits nose that’s
nicely complemented by some meatiness and a bit of spice. The palate is
densely fruited with chocolatey richness and earthy, spicy complexity,
finishing quite savoury. Tastes much more expensive than it is, and is
acceptably modern, with lovely focus and purity. Surprisingly low
alcohol (13.5%) considering how ripe the fruit profile is. 91/100 (£8.49
Virgin Wines) 04/08
Familia Zucchardi Bonarda Reserva 2006 Mendoza
A deep-coloured, oak-aged Bonarda weighing in at a modest 13% alcohol. This
has an attractive, savoury nose of spicy plummy fruit, which leads to a
palate that's dense, savoury and structured. There's plenty of forward
red berry, cherry and plum fruit here as well as well integrated oak.
Some grippy tannins on the finish make this a useful food wine. Great
value for money and really delicious. 88/100 (£6.99 Oddbins) 04/08
Fuzion Shiraz Malbec 2007 Mendoza, Argentina
From Familia Zucchardi. Sweet, pure, ripe berry and black fruits dominate
here, and there are some autumnal, foresty flavours, too. There's a hint
of sweetness, but the dominant feature is the attractive pure fruit.
Over-delivers for the price. Just 13% alcohol, too. 83/100 (£3.99
Somerfield) 03/08
Finca Flichman Reserva Shiraz 2006 Mendoza,
Argentina
A dark, spicy, slightly meaty wine with lovely fruit intensity. This is
joined by a subtle roast coffee edge, perhaps from the oak. There's some
grippy structure on the palate which adds savouriness: I reckon this is
a style best with food. Some substance here. 86/100 (£5.99 Waitrose,
Stevens Garnier) 03/08
Terrazas Reserva Chardonnay 2006 Mendoza, Argentina
From high vineyards, at 1200 m altitude. This initially strikes me as very
ripe, with tropical fruit, honey and vanilla to the fore. It's smooth,
nutty and rich-textured, but there's also a brightness to the fruit,
with some citrussy notes. It's a rounded, well integrated sort of wine
of real appeal, although some might prefer their Chardonnays to have a
bit more in the way of 'edges' and contrast between the various flavours.
I like the way it is so 'together'. 89/100 (£10.99 Harvey Nichols)
03/08
Fuzion Shiraz Malbec 2007 Mendoza, Argentina
From Familia Zucchardi. Sweet, pure, ripe berry and black fruits dominate
here, and there are some autumnal, foresty flavours, too. There's a hint
of sweetness, but the dominant feature is the attractive pure fruit.
Over-delivers for the price. Just 13% alcohol, too. 83/100 (£3.99
Somerfield) 03/08
Finca Flichman Reserva Shiraz 2006 Mendoza,
Argentina
A dark, spicy, slightly meaty wine with lovely fruit intensity. This is
joined by a subtle roast coffee edge, perhaps from the oak. There's some
grippy structure on the palate which adds savouriness: I reckon this is
a style best with food. Some substance here. 86/100 (£5.99 Waitrose,
Stevens Garnier) 03/08
Terrazas Reserva Chardonnay 2006 Mendoza, Argentina
From high vineyards, at 1200 m altitude. This initially strikes me as very
ripe, with tropical fruit, honey and vanilla to the fore. It's smooth,
nutty and rich-textured, but there's also a brightness to the fruit,
with some citrussy notes. It's a rounded, well integrated sort of wine
of real appeal, although some might prefer their Chardonnays to have a
bit more in the way of 'edges' and contrast between the various flavours.
I like the way it is so 'together'. 89/100 (£10.99 Harvey Nichols)
03/08
Familia
Zuccardi Pinot Grigio Torrentes 2007 Mendoza, Argentina
A really
successful aromatic white wine, with striking floral, grapey aromas and
a fresh, crisp palate. It’s not as flirty as some Torrontes can be,
and better for it, I reckon, with the prettiness of this grape variety
combining well with the food-friendliness and crispness of the Pinot
Grigio. 87/100 (£5.99 Oddbins) 04/08
M&S Fairtrade Pinot Grigio 2007 Famatina Valley,
Argentina
This is a really attractive aromatic white wine with a
grapey, melony, herby nose that leads to a palate kept fresh by a citrus
kick. At 12.5% alcohol this is a light, expressive white with a nice
personality from the La Riojana co-operative. 84/100 (£5.49 M&S)
02/08
Finca Flichman 'Gestos' Malbec 2006 Mendoza,
Argentina
An equal blend of grapes from 1100 m and 700 m, this is a deep coloured
wine. The nose shows raspberry and blackberry fruit with a savoury,
spicy overlay and some coffee and tar oak overtones. It's quite tight
and reductive. The palate shows nice fresh red fruit character with a
bit of plmmy bitterness and some spicy oak influence. It's a savoury
wine with some depth, and drying, grippy tannins on the finish. Yet
there's some ripeness and charm here also. It's not the most refined
wine you'll ever drink, but for the price, there's a lot going on here,
and it is tremendously food friendly. Would be perfect with a big
Argentinian rump steak. 87/100 (£5.99 Majestic, Stevens Garnier) 11/07
Landelia Malbec
‘Single Vineyard’ 2005 Agrelo, Mendoza, Argentina
A bit of a bargain this: it’s a dense, dark, fruit driven Malbec
of real poise, with some purity to the sweet dark fruits nose that’s
nicely complemented by some meatiness and a bit of spice. The palate is
densely fruited with chocolatey richness and earthy, spicy complexity,
finishing quite savoury. Tastes much more expensive than it is, and is
acceptably modern, with lovely focus and purity. Surprisingly low
alcohol (13.5%) considering how ripe the fruit profile is. 91/100 (£8.49
Virgin Wines) 04/08
Canale Reserve Merlot 2005 Patagonia, Argentina
The garish orange label isn’t a good indicator of
what’s in the bottle. This stylish red wine, from Patagonia in
southern Argentina, is really quite restrained and balanced – it’s
not at all brash. The nose is quite fresh, with bright dark fruits
joined by a bit of gravelly minerality and some vanilla and spice oak
notes. The palate is quite Bordeaux-like: there’s a freshness and
savouriness to the dark fruits that’s not usually found in the new
world, with tar, spice and earth notes joining the well defined dark
fruits. This rather sophisticated, well mannered Merlot is a wine
that’s best with food, and which will age well over the medium term.
90/100 (Marks & Spencer £9.99) 08/07
Marks & Spencer Famatina Valley Pinot Grigio 2006
Argentina
Bright, crisp and fresh – so much so, it’s almost
transparent, with lovely purity and focus. Good acidity keeps the palate
really fresh, with apple and citrus fruit and a lemony finish. 86/100
(Marks & Spencer) 03/07
Catena Malbec 2004 Mendoza, Argentina
With fruit from three vineyards at altitude: Angelica
(2850 ft), Agrelo (3100) and La Consulta (3000). Quite a classy, refined
nose which is a bit minerally with dark fruits, a hint of earth and some
spice. Some mint too? The palate is dark, spicy and earthy in a subtly
understated style . Savoury and food friendly, this is not new-worldy at
all. A bit Bordeauz-like. 89/100 (£10.99 Majestic, Waitrose) 11/06
Canale
Reserve Merlot 2004 Rio Negro Valley, Patagonia, Argentina
From the far south of Argentina, the back label suggests that
‘guests will be surprised by its provenance’. It has an interesting
nose, with deep dark plummy fruit combined with a minerally, spicy,
tarry edge. There’s also some chalky richness. The palate is dark,
spicy and savoury with some pleasing plummy bitterness and firm tannins
under the ripe, black fruits. Dark, complex, savoury and satisfying. It
reminds me of the southwest of France, a bit. Very good/excellent 92/100
(Marks & Spencer £9.99) 09/06
Colome
2004 Valle Calchaqui, Salta, Argentina
This is a striking, modern styled wine that's quite forward and
seductive, while at the same time retaining balance. A deep colour, it
has a beguiling, sweet, pure nose of blackberry jam with some fresh
raspberries in the mix, accompanied by a hint of vanilla oak. The palate
shows quite elegant pure fruit, sweet yet not mushy and over-ripe.
There's some spicy tannin, and the only negative is the high alcohol
(14.5%), which makes its presence felt. Clearly new world in style, and
fruit-driven, but pretty classy in this seductive mould. Wines like this
will have Chile worried, I reckon. If you are in the mood for it, this
is thoroughly delicious, but traditionalists beware! Very good/excellent
91/100 (£12.99 Oddbins) 06/06
Etchart
Privado Torrontes 2005 Cayafete, Salta, Argentina
If
you’ve not tried a good Torrontes, you’ve been missing something, so
try this one. It has a beautifully perfumed, floral nose with grape and
lychee aromas. The palate has a fresh herbal edge: it smells sweet but
tastes dry, with good acid. Clean, fruity and dry. Very good 83/100 (£4.99
Waitrose) 02/06
Chacayes
2003 Mendoza, Argentina
J&F Lurton. From a vineyards at 1000 m, this is a superb red
wine in a modern mould. A vivid red/purple colour it has a tight nose of
sweet, refined fruit with a touch of oak and some chocolatey richness.
The palate is concentrated, spicy and tannic with primary red and black
fruits. A sophisticated wine: a little oaky at the moment, but there’s
real potential for development here with its firm structure and intense
fruit. Very good/excellent 93/100 (c. £30) 04/06
Clos
de Los Siete 2004 Mendoza, Argentina
Very dark
coloured. Lovely supple smooth dark fruits on the nose. The palate is
sweet and smooth; dark and supple. There’s a spicy, chocolatey
richness. This is a concentrated sweetly fruited modern with but it’s
quite well balanced at the same time. Delicious and easily appreciated.
Very good/excellent 91/100 (£10.99 Majestic, Oddbins) 10/05
Clos de los Siete 2003 Mendoza, Argentina
From seven vineyards in the foothills of the Andes, this is an
ambitious red wine; the project is managed by Michel Rolland. It’s a
striking wine. Very dark colour. Intoxicating sweet nose of liqueur-like
blackcurrants and red fruits. Very pure and sweet with a spicy edge:
quite like a young vintage port. The palate is sweet with a rounded,
roasted character and a spicy edge. It finishes dry with a spicy edge
and some drying effect from the alcohol. This is a delicious forward
wine for current consumption, but the combination of a firm, spicy,
rather drying tannic structure and some alcoholic heat on the finish
suggests this is not one for cellaring. This aside, there's no denying
that this is a very seductive wine with wonderful purity of the fruit.
Very good/excellent 91/100 (£10.99 Majestic, £8.99 if you buy two)
05/05
Finca
Flichman Tanguero Reserve Malbec 2004 Mendoza, Argentina
This bold red wine is spicy and dark with soft, rich fruits and a
tarry, grippy finish. Quite a rich style but nicely savoury: this will
work well with food. Very good+ 86/100 (£5.99 Unwins, 2 for £10 until
10 October) 08/05
Clos
de Los Siete 2003 Mendoza, Argentina
Grapes
come from 350 hectares at 1100 m altitude. A blend of Malbec, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. Very deep colour. Sweet forward black
fruits nose of lovely vivid fruit. It’s soft, supple and gloriously
fruited on the palate. Very intense and quite brilliant. Very
good/excellent 93/100 (£9.99 Waitrose) 04/05
Catena
Alta Malbec 2001 Mendoza, Argentina
Dark
with quite a spicy nose. Good concentration of dark, savoury spicy fruit
here. Very good+ 89/100 (£25 Waitrose) 04/05
Achaval
Ferrer Quimera 2001 Mendoza, Argentina
A
blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Merlot. Interestingly, the blend
occurs before racking into barrels, of which 40% are new (10% American
oak and 90% French oak). The wine shows a sensational rounded, sweet
perfumed nose, with creamy blackcurrant fruit. The palate displays more
of this sweet, rounded fruit which hides a smooth tannic core. There’s
a subtle herby complexity and some minerality is apparent on the finish.
Very good/excellent 92/100 (£20.56 Corney & Barrow) 02/04
Hacienda
San Jose Sauvignon Blanc 2003 Mendoza, Argentina
Quite a rich herby nose with some grassiness, melon and papaya
notes. The palate is savoury and quite rich with some herby fruit. Nice
for the price. (Aldi) 09/04
Picajuan
Peak Bonarda 2002 Mendoza, Argentina
Rich
pure berry fruit with an attractive spicy edge and nice juicy acidity.
Tasty stuff- this is a great pizza wine. Very good 84/100 (£3.99 Tesco)
01/04
Picajuan
Peak Bonarda 2002 Mendoza, Argentina
This red is sealed with a screwcap, which will no doubt help preserve its
pure, juicy berry fruit. It's not a wine to take too seriously, but it
does deliver a good dollop of bright, tasty fruit with an appealing
spiciness and nice acidity. A good pizza wine. Very good 84/100 (£3.99
Tesco) 12/03
Norton Torrontes 2002 Mendoza, Argentina
Striking floral nose is delicate and aromatic. The palate is dry,
crisp and slightly herby. A pleasant, interesting white in a light
summer style. Very good+ 86 (£5.99 Oddbins) 04/03
Valentin Bianchi Los Primos Barbera 2000 San Rafael,
Mendoza, Argentina
Lovely vivid juicy cherry fruit dominates here, with a nice spicy
edge. Very juicy and easy to drink but still with good concentration.
Brilliant value and a perfect Pizza wine. Very good+ 87 (£4.99 Oddbins)
04/03
Norton Malbec 2000, Mendoza, Argentina
This rather simple glugger shows attractive soft berry fruit with a
chocolatey richness and a hint of sweetness. Very soft and approachable.
Good/very good 08/02
Alamos Chardonnay 1999 Mendoza, Argentina
Attractive, forward oaky nose with creamy vanilla notes. Rich, oaky
and buttery. It’s quite attractive and well made but relies on oak for
its character quite a bit. Good commercial Chardonnay. Very good
(Majestic) 10/02
Weinert Carrascal 1997, Mendoza, Argentina
This is Argentina's answer to Château Musar: traditionally made
with an unusual, old-fashioned character that toys with the border of
faultiness. And in an age when all wines appear to be beginning to taste
the same, it's a very welcome change. A blend of Malbec, Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot, it has a rich, savoury, slightly leathery nose.
It's not overtly fruity, and there's a little bit of volatile acidity.
The medium-bodied palate shows some herby, spicy character, and there's
a touch of sweetness to the fruit. Some meatiness emerges after a while
and there's spicy complexity. Old fashioned in a nice way. Very
good/excellent (£7.99 Majestic, Connollys) 02/02
Valentin
Bianchi Elsa Barbera 2000, Mendoza, Argentina
This vibrant, juicy red is a wonderful find. Really lovely forward
liquoricey berry fruit on the nose. The palate has lots of bright
savoury-edged berry fruit with good acidity. Completely more-ish, this
is brilliant for the price. Very good/excellent (£5.45 Berry Bros &
Rudd) 05/02
La
Nature Torrontes 2001, Famatina Valley, Argentina
From northwest Argentina, this organic wine is a delicious example of
the indigenous Torrontes. Pretty, aromatic nose with floral, spicy,
perfumed rose-petal notes. Nicely balanced fruity palate with a grapey
character and good acidity. This is a superb summer sipper with a well
poised, delicate texture. Very good+ (£4.29 Sainsbury, Vinceremos)
10/01
Weinert
Carrascal 1997, Mendoza, Argentina
This is Argentina's answer to Château Musar: traditionally made with an
unusual, old-fashioned character that toys with the border of
faultiness. And in an age when all wines appear to be beginning to taste
the same, it's a very welcome change. A blend of Malbec, Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot, it has a rich, savoury, slightly leathery nose.
It's not overtly fruity, and there's a little bit of volatile acidity.
The medium-bodied palate shows some herby, spicy character, and there's
a touch of sweetness to the fruit. Some meatiness emerges after a while
and there's spicy complexity. Old fashioned in a nice way. Very
good/excellent (£7.99 Majestic, Connollys) 02/02
Cavas
de Weinert Gran Vino 1996, Mendoza, Argentina
There’s a herby, spicy, mushroomy edge to the nose, showing some
evolution and coming across as a tiny bit rustic. Good concentration of
spicy, warm fruit on the palate. Nicely balanced, but very old fashioned
style. Savoury, earthy and spicy. Fairly complex. Very good+ (£9.99
Majestic) 02/02
Ché
Syrah 2001, La Rioja, Argentina
There’s a touch of bubblegum to the bright, almost sweet fruit
berry fruit on the nose. The palate is very fruity with good acid
balance. Quite juicy, this is Argentina’s answer to Beajoulais.
Perhaps a bit synthetic and industrial. Good/very good (£3.99 Oddbins)
02/02
Carmelo
Patti Cabernet Sauvignon 1997, Mendoza, Argentina
Really attractive nose of leafy blackcurrant fruit, with a slight
herbaceousness (not unattractive, though) and a touch of minerality. The
palaye is savoury with some tannins, and is not at all new-worldy: in
fact, it’s quite Loire-like. Medium bodied with mineral-laced
blackcurrant and raspberry fruit. Delicious stuff. Very good/excellent (£7.99
Oddbins) 02/02
Santa
Julia Tempranillo 2000, Mendoza
Roast coffee edge to the nose, with bright, primary cherry fruit.
Savoury, spicy edge to the palate which shows pure cherry and raspberry
fruit. Very modern and fruity with good concentration and a chocolatey
richness. Attractive commercial winemaking. Very good (£4.99 Tesco)
02/02
Santa
Julia Bonarda Sangiovese Reserva 1999, Mendoza, Argentina
Pretty nose dominated by minty spicy vanilla-edged new oak. Good
concentration on the palate which shows cherry and berry fruit, and
rather overwhelming savoury, spicy new oak, and woody tannins. A crowd
pleaser, but perhaps too manufactured with a bit too much oak influence.
But it’s a nicely savoury food wine. Good/very good (£5.99 Tesco)
02/02
Vina
Amalia Chardonnay 1999, Mendoza
Barrel-fermented for 4 months in new French oak, this is a pale
yellow colour. Slightly shy, sulfury nose with grapefuit and pineapple
notes. The palate is richly textured with some nuttiness from the oak,
but it’s a bit alcoholic and unbalanced. Lacking in flavour where it
counts. Good (£4.99 Oddbins) 03/02
Vina
Amalia Malbec 1999, Mendoza
Aged for 8 months in French and American oak; unfiltered. Slightly
sulfury, minerally nose. Reasonably concentrated ripe fruit on the
palate with good acidity and a spicy finish, but a bit rough-edged.
I’m not too keen on this. Good (£4.99 Oddbins)
03/02
Catena Chardonnay Agrelo Vineyard 2000, Mendoza, Argentina
The nose is a bit shy initially, but when coaxed shows a rich, lifted,
nutty character. The palate is quite nutty, alcoholic and a bit
disappointing, with the oak sticking out. Good concentration, though.
Very good (£8.50) 09/01
Bright Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 'Barrica Reserve' 1999,
San Juan, Argentina
The nose shows sweet fruit and vanilla, with notes of coffee and spice.
The palate is ripe and very accessible, with blackcurrant fruit and
plenty of seductive oak. Tasty and with good concentration, there's just
enough acidity and spicy tannins to give balance. My only criticism is
that it is a little bit anonymous and relies heavily on the oak for its
character. Very good+ (£6.49 Sainsbury) 09/01
Valentin Bianchi Malbec 'Elsa's Vineyard' 1998, Mendoza
I'm a bit confused. This Malbec from Valentin Bianchi is labelled
very differently to the Valentin Bianchi wines carried by Oddbins (both
cheaper and more expensive examples are part of the range). Oddbins also
used to stock this very same wine, although in slightly grander
packaging and at a higher price. Can anyone enlighten me? Anyway, this
is a single vineyard wine made from 85% Malbec and 15% Barbera. It's a
lovely savoury red wine with a nice herby nose, showing some leafy notes
in the background. There are also notes of spice, tar and chocolate. The
palate is rich, soft and ripe with a spicy edge. Quite delicious: a full
on wine, but not a manufactured, new-world style. Very good/excellent (£6.70
The Good Wine Shop) 06/01
Norton Privada 1998, Mendoza, Argentina
The Norton range is one of Argentina's most reliable, and this,
their top wine is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec
that's decent enough without actually being exciting. Muted nose, with
ripe berry fruit on the palate. Quite restrained with good tannins. Nice
balance. Very good. (£8.99 Oddbins)
Norton Privada 1995, Mendoza, Argentina
A premium blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, aged in French
oak, from the export-oriented Norton winery. This has been cellared for
some three years or so since I bought it: a nice experiment to see how
new-wave Argentinean reds age. This has a sweet, powerful cedary nose;
on the palate it is soft and full. The fruit is drying out a little and
there's high acidity, but it is still very much alive. Although this is
a classic Bordeaux-style blend, it is quite Italian-like in style --
it's also a bit reminiscent of an aged Aussie. Very good (Current
release is £8.99, Oddbins) 11/00
Bodega Lurton Pinot Gris 2000, Mendoza, Argentina
Light, dry white wine with fresh character and attractive floral lift to
the nose. There's some melon fruit and a touch of spiciness on the
palate, but overall this is a bit neutral for my tastes. Will do a job
as an all purpose white table wine. Good+ (£3.99 Waitrose) 11/00
Viña el Paraiso Chardonnay 1999, Mendoza, Argentina
Clean, modern-styled Chardonnay with good depth. Balanced, lean palate,
and not too 'synthetic'. Very good. (Adnams £5.45) 11/00
Viña el Paraiso Syrah 1999, Mendoza, Argentina
Bright purple colour this displays lively primary fruit characteristics.
It's a rather dull commercial red wine though. (Adnams £5.45) 11/00
Catena Chardonnay 1999 Agrelo Vineyard, Mendoza, Argentina
A remarkable, full-flavoured Chardonnay that is sophisticated yet still
very oaky. Lovely full, rounded toasty nose. Rich, ripe and complex
palate with prominent (but classy) toasty oak. I really like this wine,
which shows impressive concentration, but avoid if you are averse to
oak. Very good + (£8.99 Majestic) 9/00
Catena Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 Agrelo Vineyard, Mendoza
This is a dense, classy Cabernet from Catena, possibly Argentina's
leading 'modern' winery. Lusciously textured blackcurrant fruit is
underlain by an attractive mineral streak. Approachable now, there is
the tannic structure to reward a few years' cellaring. Very good+ (£8.99
Majestic) 9/00
Santa Julia Viognier 2000, Mendoza, Argentina
Viognier is one of the most trendy white varieties, but I've rarely been
convinced by cheap examples -- this is an exception. Authentic varietal
Viognier with an attractive nose of flowers, spice and peaches. Good
concentration on the palate with crisp, clean, spicy flavours and good
acidity. Very good. (£4.99 Sainsburys) 9/00
Argento Malbec 1999 Mendoza, Argentina
A wine that has had the press swooning this summer, it really
left me cold -- I ended up pouring the remains down the sink after two
nights. From Argentina's leading light, Catena, this is not as good as
the offerings from Bianchi and Norton in this price bracket. A muted
nose leads to soft, vanilla-edged fruit: a bit sweet and synthetic,
lacking real guts. OK (£4.99 widely available) 9/00
Etchart 'Rio de Plata' Torrontes 1998, Salta, Argentina
A hugely enjoyable wine that represents great value for money,
from Argentina's 'own' white grape variety, Torrontes. Beautiful open
nose of sweet floral notes is followed up on the palate by grapefruit
and spice. Bone dry: a bit like a cross between a Gewürztraminer and a
Sauvignon blanc. Very good + (£3.99, Asda) 7/00
Tesco Torrontés NV, Famatina Region, Rioja, Argentina
Produced by the firm of La Riojana. Grapey, musky nose. Thick and bitter
on the palate. Lacks the floral elegance this grape is capable of:
overly alcoholic at 13.5%. (£3.49, Tesco) 7/00
Norton Barbera 1997, Mendoza,
Argentina
Bright, fruit-driven red with lashes of cherry fruit and some
exotic, porty/herby complexity. There are notes of coffee and olives
too. Really good, chunky stuff, with some Italian character married to
the pure primary fruit typical of new wave South American wines. (£4.99
Oddbins) 12/99
Valentin Bianchi Malbec Reserve
1996, San Rafael, Argentina
A superb example of Argentina's 'own' grape. Lovely rich meaty and
medicinal nose with a slightly burnt quality and some smokiness. Super,
rich and soft on the palate with rich licqouricey character. Slightly
odd, but lovely. Rich and supple. Very good/ excellent. (£8.99 Oddbins)
6/00
Vina Alicia Petit Verdot 1998, Lujan de Cuyo, Argentina
A remarkable wine! Made from the rare Bordeaux variety Petit
Verdot, this is a thick, opaque, super-ripe concoction. Inky and dense,
ripe, sweet fruit is joined on the palate by jammy, licqouricey elements
with a dusty dry texture. The massive concentration and soft, sweet
fruit together combine to make a memorable and interesting wine. Very
good to excellent. With a bit more structure this would be sensational
stuff. (Adnams) 4/00
Norton Torrontes 1999, Mendoza
Torrontes is Argentina’s ‘own’ white variety – widely
grown there, all but non-existent elsewhere, and capable of making
delightful aromatic wines. This is a good floral, aromatic quaffer with
a delightful nose, and a touch of spice. On the palate it is reasonably
simple (it is a very pale wine), but the aromatic qualities really make
this a super match for strongly flavoured foods. Recommended. (£4.49
Oddbins) 11/99
Norton Torrontes 1998, Mendoza
Big floral nose is varietally true, but is spoiled by a flat,
slightly bitter palate. Better examples exist of this interesting grape.
(Oddbins £4.99) 5/99
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