Arguably the top property in Vinho Verde,
Soalheiro is based in Melgaço, and specialize in the Alvarinho
grape variety. They own 6 hectares, and the largest vineyard is just
1 hectare. 6 hectares of vines are also contracted with small
growers. We met with Luís Cerdeira, son of the founder, who works
with his brother João in running the estate, and with Luís’
sister Maria, who is a vet but is also involved in the family
business.
Luis and Maria
25 years ago Luis’ father began making
Alvarinho in this region: previously there had been none here. His
first vineyard was planted in 1974, the year of the revolution.
People here were then subsistence farmers and vineyards here were
something new. Indeed, it wasn’t legal at the time to have
vineyards here. The first wines released under the Soalheiro label
were in 1982.
For the last two years Soalheiro have
been in conversion to organics. ‘We use so many chemicals in the
vineyard, we must do something to change that,’ says Luis. The
soils are granitic, with medium fertility, and yields are around 6
tons/hectare.
Three different Alvarinhos are made, as
well as an Espumante (sparkling wine). Some barrels are used in the
winery. The grapes are whole-bunch pressed and there is no skin
maceration. Most ferments are with natural yeasts, and the
fermentations with these are smoother and longer.
We tasted extensively, with a vertical of
the basic Soalheiro Alvarinho going back to 1995. These wines can
certainly age. The top wine here is the Primeiras Vinhas, all from
estate fruit fermented for longer at lower temperature. The Reserva
is a little different, because of some wood ageing, but the hint of
toasty oak (less than 30% of which is new) doesn’t distract from
the lovely purity of the fruit.
A fourth wine is also made, but this is
from the Loureiro variety grown in the Lima subdistrict, and it is a
joint project with Dirk Niepoort, called Giro Sol.
THE
WINES
Soalheiro Alvarinho 1995 Vinho Verde Yellow/gold colour. Amazing nose showing toasty, waxy, citrussy
notes. The palate is broad and fresh with a strongly herby
character. Toasty and broad with hints of butter and petrol. Fresh
and assertive, this is interesting stuff. 91/100
Soalheiro Alvarinho 2000 Vinho Verde A warm year. Gold colour. Bold, aromatic, herby and rich with
some peach notes. Concentrated palate with concentrated, herby,
spicy notes and some tropical fruit, as well as high acidity. Bold
and intense, and still fresh at 8 years old. 88/100
Soalheiro Alvarinho 2002 Vinho Verde Cool year. Yellow/gold colour. Lively, herby, citrusy nose with
some subtle toasty notes and delicate waxy herbiness. The palate is
rounded, a bit nutty and has some toasty notes, as well as bright
pear and citrus fruit. 90/100
Soalheiro Alvarinho 2003 Vinho Verde Deep yellow/gold. Toasty, herby tropical fruit nose. The palate
is bold and intense with broad, rich, nutty fruit. Finished a bit
shorter than the 2002, but is tasty and intense. 88/100
Soalheiro Alvarinho 2006 Vinho Verde Yellow colour. Lovely minerally, citrusy nose. The palate is
lively and bright with fresh herbiness and lovely precision and
focus. Nice depth of pure, minerally fruit here. 90/100
Soalheiro Alvarinho 2007 Vinho Verde Very fresh, aromatic, bright and quite estery on the nose,
showing citrus and peach fruit as well as minerals. The palate is
pure and focused with nice citrussy precision and some pear and
peach richness. Lovely. 91/100
Giro Sol Loureiro 2007 Vinho Verde Very focused, bright minerally nose. Amazingly vivid bright,
fruity palate with lovely focused peach, apricot and pear flavours
and brilliant transparency. The high acidity is offset by 12 g/litre
residual sugar. Lovely wine, full of interest. 91/100
Soalheiro Primeras Vinhas Alvarinho
2007 Vinho Verde This took four months to ferment, using natural yeasts. Intense,
herby, fresh nose is powerful, rich and intense. The palate is herby
and spicy with lovely concentration and depth, as well as nice
texture: rounded with a savoury edge. Bold and quite complex, this
is a substantial white wine of real appeal. 92/100
Quinta de Soalheiro Alvarinho
Reserva 2006 Yellow colour. Powerful nose of wax, herbs, nuts, citrus and
grapefruit: savoury and intense. The palate is broad and nutty with
just a hint of toasty oak. It’s powerful, intense and concentrated
with spice, nuts and peach as well as a fresh citrus edge. Serious.
92/100
Quinta de Soalheiro Alvarinho
Reserva 2007 (barrel sample) Vivid, toasty, rich and aromatic with fresh citrus fruit and
herb notes. Amazing marriage of ripe peachy fruit and oak, while
retaining citrus freshness. A lovely wine. 92–94/100
