This is astonishingly good: a thoroughly modern, but restrained and quite elegant, expression of the Saperavi grape variety. It’s made by Telavi in Kakheti, the largest of the country’s wine regions, in the east, sandwiched between Azerbaijan and Russia. Aussie David Morrison consults here. This is their top wine, fermented in quveri (clay amphorae) buried in the ground, and then with malolactic in new French oak.
Telavi Satrapezo Saperavi 2006 Kakheti, Georgia
13.5% alcohol. Fermented in clay amphorae and then aged in new French oak; 6000 bottles made. This is wonderful stuff. Elegant yet rich cherry and berry fruit with a smooth texture and a subtle creaminess from the new oak. It’s a concentrated, dense wine that’s very sophisticated and modern, yet avoids being anonymous and ‘international’, with the oak playing a supporting role to the intense, focused fruit. Fresh and structured with lovely purity, this will probably age very well, although it is delicious now. A serious wine. 93/100 (£21.99 Georgian Wine Society)
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