I have been tasting a lot of wine of late.
About many wines there is little to be said. They are just wine.
For many people, all they are looking for is something that is wine, that doesn’t taste bad, and that is affordable. Or cheap, even.
They don’t really mind where it comes from, as long as it doesn’t taste unpleasant. If it tastes nice, then that’s a bit of a bonus. But if it has too much flavour, that can be a problem.
The supermarkets are full of these wines. There’s really nothing much to be said for them. Writing a tasting note about them is silly, but some rather elaborate tasting notes of these wines end up on the back label, or in a newspaper column, relying more I suspect on the author’s imagination than any sensory property of the wine.
I don’t hate these wines, as some do. I find them mildly depressing if I think about them too much, but they aren’t evil, and some people derive pleasure from them, which is great.
I just ignore them, really, and get on with my job of trying to enthuse readers with the many life-enhancing and thoroughly inspiring bottles that I’m lucky enough to experience on a (fortunately) fairly regular basis.
90% of all wine is crap. We know that. We just need to be more honest about it, with ourselves and our readers.