Tasted today, at the London Wine Fair, a remarkable red wine from boutique Turkish producer Chamlija. It’s a grape variety that’s new to me: Papaskarasi. Not much is known about its origins. Mustafa Camlica of Chamlija proposes that one of its parents is Prokupac, a variety I have experienced in Serbia. When I tasted it, it reminded me of Kardarka (aka Gamza), which is a Hungarian/Bulgarian variety that tastes like a cross between Pinot Noir and Gamay. There’s some speculation that Kadarka is a child of Papaskarasi. Mustafa found this variety growing in an old parcel of vines in the mountains. Neighbouring winery Arcadia have taken some cuttings and have planted a plot of this variety, too, but haven’t made wine from it yet. It shows lots of promise.
Chamlija Papaskarasi 2013 Thrace, Turkey
Beautifully expressive with fresh, lively black cherries and plums on the nose. Supple, juicy, elegant palate with a green herby edge to the sweet black cherry and plum fruit. So expressive and a bit like a ripe Pinot Noir in character, with good freshness and a bit of grip. 94/100
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