One of Rioja’s most traditional producers is López de Heredia Viña Tondonia. These wines are remarkable: they are made in a very traditional, somewhat oxidative style, but they always seem to work, with bags of personality. And they age really well. I’ve never seen one young, in fact – they are released as they just begin to enter their peak drinking phase. This 2001 Reserva is starting to shine, but its best years are almost certainly ahead of it.
Viña Tondonia Reserva 2001 Rioja, Spain
A beautifully taut, complex, taut, traditionally styled Rioja with notes of spice, earth, herbs, minerals and subtle oak notes. Fresh with some cherry fruit, but the dominant character is non-fruit complexity: warm, spicy, evolved, grippy, sweetly aromatic with real potential for development. 92/100 (£29.95 Berry Bros & Rudd)