Finished my South African trip with an incredible informal lunch at Schoon de Companje, Stellenbosch, with a group of wine producers. Present were Ryan Mostert, Samantha Suddons, Reenen Borman, Mick Craven, Tremayne Smith, Andrew Wightman, Gavin Slabbert, Stompie Meyer, Adam Mason and Pieter van der Merwe. Quite a gathering. These are very exciting wines: the new wave of what’s going on here.
Croque Madame and triple cooked fries were just about perfect. And I made it to the airport on time.
Patatsblanc 2015 Montagu, South Africa
From an appellation heading east from Robertson, this is mostly Colombard from red slate soils at 550 metres. It’s lively and fresh with direct, transparent, mineral-laced fruit. Linear and pure with a focused, juicy personality. 91/100
Smiley Chenin Blanc V2 NV Swartland, South Africa
The second release of this solera wine. It’s made with four vintages in a mix of ways: there’s a skin contact portion, a flor-aged portion, and some made in barrels left outside in the heat to maderize. The result is a compelling wine: complex, perfumed, tangy and bright with ripe apple, pear and tangerine. There’s a spiciness, too. 93/100
Môrelig Vineyards Chenin Blanc 2015 Swartland, South Africa
Just one barrel in this, the debut vintage. It’s project of Andrew Wightman, who owns this farm, and this Chenin comes from decomposed granite soils. It’s tangy, lively and spicy with lovely linear citrus fruits, as well as pear and green apple, as well as a subtle crushed herb quality. Vital and direct. 92/100
Môrelig Skin Macerated Chenin Blanc 2015 Swartland, South Africa
This is so detailed and lovely, after 18 days on skins. It’s deep yellow gold and there’s grapey, tannic ripe apple and lemon flavour, with really good acidity. Just 11.1% alcohol. 92/100
The Blacksmith Vin Blanc 2015 Swartland, South Africa
From Tremayne who has been winemaker at Mullineux and is soon leaving for Fable in Tulbagh. This is Chenin Blanc from granite, plus Chenin from quartz, blended together. Complex and detailed with ripe apple and pear fruit showing texture and complexity, together with a really fine, lively spicy character. 93/100
The Blacksmith Barebones 2015 Paarl, South Africa
This is unwooded Cinsault, fermented whole bunch. Grippy, fresh and light with raspberry, cranberry and cherry notes. Some tannin here as well as vital and expressive red fruits. Lovely finesse. 92/100
The Blacksmith Vin Noir 2015 Coastal Region, South Africa
A blend of 42% Carignan and then equal parts Cinsault and Grenache. Juicy, bright and very fine with lovely raspberries and plums. Juicy and fresh with a fine, expressive personality. Amazing fruit focus. 94/100
Craven Chenin Blanc 2016 Stellenbosch, South Africa (cask sample)
From a vineyard near to Reyneke. Fresh and vital with lemons, ripe apples and fine herbs. Shows stunning precision with fine chalky, mineral notes. 94/100
Craven Cinsault 2016 Stellenbosch, South Africa (cask sample)
From the Bottelaray, this is from 25 year old bush vines. It’s lively and fresh with juicy raspberry and cherry fruit (it’s the only red they destem), with real brightness. So vital and delicious. 92/100
Sannierus Chenin Blanc 2015 Stellenbosch, South Africa
From Pieter van der Merwe, this is made from grapes taken from the 1947 Kaapzicht block. Powerful, concentrated and ripe with intense, spicy baked apples, herbs and rich fruitiness. Very bold and intense, but shows detail. 93/100
Sannierus Cinsault 2016 (cask sample)
Vital, spicy, detailed and sweetly fruited with a bit of lift. Expressive, spicy, peppery notes under the raspberry and cherry fruit. Supple. 92/100
Yardstick Wines Raised By Wolves Semillon 2015 Franschhoek, South Africa
This is Semillon Gris planted in 1936 in the La Colline vineyard. Debut vintage. It spends one week on skins and then is lightly pressed into 500 litre used barrels. Very lively and powerful, with a spicy personality, showing lemons, pears and a lovely juiciness under the structure. Really compelling. 94/100
Intellego Kolbroek 2015 Swartland, South Africa
12% alcohol. Syrah. Very fresh and spicy with lifted, juicy raspberry and red cherries. Pretty and smashable, if a tiny bit rustic. But that’s part of this wine’s charm. 92/100
B Vintners Liberté 2015 Stellenbosch, South Africa
This is a Pinotage. Juicy, bright and vivid with lovely black cherries. Very fine, pure, focused and expressive with a bit of grip under the pure, elegant black fruits. Lovely. 93/100
JH Meyer Wines Pinot Noir 2013 Elgin, South Africa
Whole bunch, from a single vineyard in Elgin. So fine and expressive with herb-tinged red cherries and plums, with supple spiciness. There’s a brightness here, as well as a sleek, silky texture. Quite detailed and mineral and drinking very well now. 94/100
Boschkloof Epilogue Syrah 2014 Stellenbosch, South Africa
25% whole bunch. Textured, lush, peppery and bright, showing meaty black fruits and lovely definition. There’s certainly some ripeness here, but it’s well managed. Lovely liquorice and black pepper, as well as some olive and meat. Admirable purity. 94/100
Raats Eden High Density Cabernet Franc 2014 Stellenbosch, South Africa
Destined to become a unicorn wine, just 300 bottles of this amazing Cabernet Franc are produced, from 300 vines at the back of one of their Chenin vineyards. Very elegant and supple with ripe, sweet black fruits and lovely savoury detail: graphite, soft chalk and slate. Amazing finesse and tannic structure, this is pure and detailed, and it’s quite remarkable. 95/100
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I love the 100 point scale. 17 wines reviewed and all 92-94, except one 91 and one 95. Honestly I think I’d be just as happy with normal / good / outstanding. Still it’s your blog.