My first night in Hong Kong. I get to the hotel, meet Natalie (who’d arrived earlier) and head out to La Cabane, in Central. We’re staying in Kowloon, so it’s either a taxi through one of the tunnels, or the MTR. We took the lazy option – the taxi.

La Cabane is a wonderful French natural wine bar, and on this Friday evening it was packed. Like many places here, there’s a no reservations policy, so you just wait for a few minutes for a table to become available. The place is cramped and atmospheric, and I love it.

We order some small plates, including an excellent tartare with polenta fries, some prosciutto and melon, some dumplings and a really lovely cheese course. To drink, we are spoiled for choice with an excellent wine list: think Terroirs in London, and it’s pretty close in terms of the styles of wines and the roll call of producers.

We start with the fab Thomas Pico Pattes Loup Chablis Vent d’Ange 2015. This is mineral and textural, with lovely breadth in the mouth but also a nice tension. Just the sort of Chablis I love.

Then we opt for the Guerrerie from Clos du Tue Boeuf. This inexpensive Gamay is pretty smashable, but it is a bit volatile and bretty, so not one for the purists. We drink it happily, but I would be happier with a bit more purity and fruit, and less funk. But no complaining: it’s not expensive.

If you like wine, and you are in Hong Kong, this is a must.