So restaurant wine lists are too trendy? Sommeliers guilty of forcing their esoteric tastes on punters? Should restaurants give their customers what they’d like, rather than what they should like?
Look: if you want the familiar and the comfortable, go to your neighbourhood bistro, or a chain, or any one of the gazillions of cheap ethnic restaurants, where you are guaranteed no nasty surprises.
Or, if you want comfortable, unimaginative eating but want to pay top dollar and have the illusion you are eating the finest, go to a large five star London hotel and eat in the restaurant there.
But the reason we go to high end restaurants is to appreciate the work of professionals at the top of their game. We want to be challenged with brave and imaginative cooking. And we expect the same of the wine list. That’s what top sommeliers are hired for. They are not being too trendy. They are doing their job.