A while back I reported on a visit to Portuguese winery Quinta de Sant’ana in the Lisboa region. I was particularly impressed by their Pinot Noir, which showed lovely elegance and varietal character.
Now it’s in bottle, and looking really good. However, they’ve run into problems with the authorities, who think the wine is too light. But this is Pinot Noir! It’s not supposed to be a rich, heavy, dark-coloured wine. It will be a shame if this has to be bottled as a table wine – although the recent rule changes mean that table wines can now carry the vintage and grape variety, they won’t be able to label this Quinta de Sant’ana.
Quinta de Sant’ana Pinot Noir 2009 Lisboa, Portugal
A lovely, varietally true Pinot Noir, showing fresh cherry fruit with a subtly green sappy character. It’s nicely textured with lovely freshness and good ripeness. There are subtle spicy notes and some fine, grippy tannins in the background. A bit like a Marlborough Pinot Noir in style, but very fine. 91/100