Marcel Lapierre, who died in October 2010, was a leading light in the dynamic natural wine movement in Beaujolais. He took over running the family domaine in 1973, and in 1981 – inspired by Jules Chauvet – began vinifying his wines with no added sulfur dioxide.
This wine, made by his son Mathieu, was the first post-Marcel wine (Marcel lived to see the 2010 vintage being picked). It’s made naturally, with no additions. Two cuvees of the wine are made: one without any added sulfur dioxide at all, and the other with a little at bottling (a concession for export markets, to make the wine a little less fragile). Average age of the vines is 70 years, planted on granitic soils. It’s lovely.
M Lapierre Morgon 2010 Beaujolais, France
Supremely elegant, rounded and smooth textured, with red cherry and plum fruit. Ripe and drinkable, with a lovely texture. Pure and showing a mineral, slightly grainy character, combining sweet jammy notes with some savoury depth. It’s one of those wines that is easy to drink and enjoy, yet has a savoury side, too. 92/100
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