A natural Burgundy from Alexandre Jouveaux

alexandre jouveaux

Some of the most enduring tastes are difficult to acquire.

The first time you taste a really strong goat’s cheese, your instinct is to recoil in horror. But persevere, taste on repeated occasions with an open mind, and you may find yourself loving it.

We each possess an innate sense of deliciousness, but it’s rarely the flavours we innately enjoy that we really fall in love with. I think this is the case with some wines. Of course, many people will want something tasty to drink and don’t want to go to the effort of developing a taste for something more challenging. That’s fine. But for those with the interest and perseverance, there are lots of left-field wines that promise enduring pleasure if the taste is acquired.

This is such a wine. Many will find it revolting, with its challenging flavours. But I’ve been drinking it for three days now, and it has really grown on me. I’m still challenged by it, but I think it’s quite serious. It’s a wine I could get to love a great deal more if I had a case of it. But if I were a sommelier, I’d warn people before they ordered it: it’s not an easy drink.

Alexandre Jouveaux Vin de Table ’09’ France
This vin de table is actually a 2009 wine from Macon, Burgundy, made very naturally by an ex-fashion photographer. It’s remarkable. Yellow in colour, it has a pungent, lifted nose of lemon, nuts, matchstick and apples, with a strongly savoury character. The palate is bracingly fresh, with high acidity and notes of lemon oil, spice, mineral and herbs. A long, nutty, acidic finish rounds things off. It develops nicely overnight, and then to the third day, suggesting this could have a good future ahead of it. Slightly oxidative and strongly reduced at the same time. 93/100 (£25.95 Roberson)

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