I just love this wine. It’s not expensive (early teens in GBP), but it delivers complexity, precision, freshness and vitality. There are two streams in Hungarian red wine it seems: big, very ripe, oaky wines (such as many of the Merlots and Cabernet Francs from Villany) and then fresher, more precise, balanced wines (such as a few Kadarkas and Kekfrankos I have tried). Apparently, according to my local contacts, the domestic preference is sadly for the former. It’s such a shame, because more wines like these and Hungary could be known as one of the great red wine countries.
Wetzer Kekfrankos 2011 Sopron, Hungary
Peter Wetzer has fashioned a really superb wine here: it has lovely sweet, aromatic blackberry and black cherry fruit on the slightly lifted nose. The palate is precise, fresh and lively with nice fresh acidity and sweet pure black cherry fruit. It’s very bright with some grippy tannins and raspberry freshness. Fresh, juicy and vital, with plenty of complexity too. 93/100
UK agent: The Winemakers Club