Now this, dear readers, is a brilliant wine. It’s a Hungarian red made from the Kadarka variety, which is a new discovery for me. From my limited experience, I reckon this is a really interesting grape, making elegant wines a bit reminiscent of Pinot Noir.
It’s made by József Szentesi, whose mission has been to work with old indigenous Hungarian varieties, of which Kadarka is one. He also has a reputation for eccentricity, it seems, and makes some of his wines in very small quantities. It’s perhaps for this reason that this particular one comes in a 500 ml bottle: presumably there isn’t a lot of it to go around.
When I opened this wine I knew nothing about it. Immediately I was captivated by its elegance and haunting perfume, with the fruit framed by just a subtle green note. Fabulous stuff.
Szentesi Kadarka 2009 Etyek-Buda, Hungary
14% alcohol. Lovely fresh, peppery lift to the pure red cherry fruit nose, with subtle herbal, hedgerow hints and some floral characters. The palate is superbly elegant with sleek cherry fruit, some fresh peppery notes and admirable purity. It’s ripe but so pure and elegant with a fine, mineral finish. 94/100
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