Rather daft to think that you can do a walk-in to somewhere as spectacularly good as La Maison du Columbier in Beaune, especially in the third week of November, but we tried our luck and they had a table for two free. This set us up for a great evening of lovely food and booze. And by coincidence, Xavier Rousset and Neal Martin were on separate adjoining tables.
This isn’t a fancy place, but the cooking is solidly good and delicious (pictured are the scallops, and the foie gras and lentils), and the wine list is astonishing. This has to be one of the best lists I have seen, and it was hard to get past the epic grower Champagne section, which was very fairly priced. Burgundy forms the bulk of the list, and includes some gems, including some very affordable Roulot. We ordered the Luchets, but they’d run out, so we slummed it with the village Meursault. I love places like this, and if I’m back in Beaune any time soon, I’ll make a reservation here my top priority.
Champagne Marie Noelle Ledru Grand Cru 2009 France
Intense and bold with apple and citrus on the nose as well hints of wax and nuts. The plate is intense with amazing acidity and precision as well as nuts, herbs, a hint of anise and fine spices. Quite vinous. Profound. 93/100
Domaine Roulot Meursault 2014 Burgundy, France
Delicate and expressive with sweet lemon fruit together with hints of flowers, cedar and sweet vanilla. It’s vital and complex with a matchstick twist. There are some sweet notes (some toffee) but the main drive is freshness and focus. 93/100