Italian red grape varieties all seem to travel poorly. While they achieve good results in Italy, they seldom work abroad. Here’s an exception: possibly the best non-Italian Sangiovese I have yet tried. It’s from a vineyard in Heathcote, and the name Greenstone refers to the colour of the rocks in the soil which are coloured green by the oxidised iron in the soils. The vineyard is a 40 hectare block, of which 21 hectares are planted to vine. The wine was made at Kooyong in the Mornington Peninsula, under the guidance of Alberto Antonini. The project is a collaboration involving Alberto, Mark Walpole and David Gleave of Liberty Wines, and the vineyard has new Sangiovese clones from Tuscany.
Greenstone Vineyard Sangiovese 2007 Heathcote, Australia
13.5% alcohol, and the pH of this wine (3.32) is very low. Intense, savoury, spicy, almost bloody, mineral dark fruits nose. Very Italian. The palate has some sweet fruit but also lively, intense, tarry, herby, spicy savouriness and good acidity. Long and savoury with lovely personality. Rich yet fresh and savoury, this is deliciously individual. 92/100 (£27 Noel Young, Wholefoods)
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