This month's recommended wines: May 2001

Recommended wines

Reliable, independent buying advice from the wine anorak
May 2001

Wines under £8 | Wines over £8

My rating system explained

Bargain picks: wines under £8

Christoffel-Berres 1994 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett, Mosel Saar Ruwer
One of a clutch of remarkably inexpensive German wines from Majestic, this is a deliciously fruity Riesling with a complex, rounded palate displaying notes of apples, lemons and pears. Nice acidity and great balance for the price; there's a bit of sweetness on the finish, but this helps. Very good+ (4.99 Majestic)

Mas Bruguière 'L'Arbouse' Pic St Loup 1998, Coteaux du Languedoc
The Languedoc commune of Pic St Loup has developed quite a reputation for classy reds at good prices. Here, top-flight producer Mas Brugière has produced a lovely, expressive Southern French red with a savoury, meaty nose that's actually rather Northern-Rhône-like, showing raspberries, blackcurrants and herbs. The palate is dominated by ripe, meaty fruit, some tannins and nice balancing acidity. It's a wine that doesn't rely on power, but beguiling complexity. Very good/excellent (£6.99 Noel Young)

Wyndham Estate Bin 555 Shiraz 1998, South East Australia
Do you like full-flavoured, oaky Australian Shiraz? If so, you'll love this wine, which is one of the best moderately priced examples of this genre I've come across. It is dense coloured, with a pungent, slightly medicinal edge to the nose that adds some interest. On the palate it shows sweet, dense fruit with noticeable oak and great concentration. Delicious, full-on stuff if you like this style. Very good/excellent (£5.99 Majestic)

The Unpronounceable Grape, Cserszegi Fűszeres 2000, Duna region, Hungary
From the Hilltop Neszmely winery, this grape is a crossing of Gewurztraminer and Irsai Oliver. It has a lovely grapey, floral/aromatic nose and a dry palate that shows a slightly spicy edge. Fresh, crisp, acidic, very tasty and most definitely a bargain. Very good+ (£3.99 Bottoms Up)

Wines over £8

Albert Mann Tokay Pinot Gris Vieilles Vignes 1999
From a tricky vintage a lovely expression of Pinot Gris. This isn't big and fat like some examples of this grape can be, but instead shows good balance. It displays rounded, ripe grapey/spicy flavours, and notes of honey, toffee apples and smoke, with a long spicy finish. Just a touch of residual sugar: the overall impression is quite dry. A rich, full flavoured food wine. Very good+ (£10.49 Oddbins)

Anselmi San Vicenzo 1999 IGT Veneto
Nice minimalist packaging conceals a lovely full flavoured Italian white wine from overachieving producer Anselmi. There's an attractive smokiness to the nose, and the fresh, creamy, herby palate shows savoury, grapey fruit. Nicely balanced and with a beguiling complexity that makes me want to try his more serious single vineyard bottling. Very good/excellent (£8.50 Fortnum and Mason)

Green Point Brut 1996, Domaine Chandon, Yarra Valley, Australia
Australia's classiest fizz? The rear label discloses that this is 55% Pinot Noir, 45% Chardonnay (I wonder what the missing 1% is?), aged for 30 months on the yeast lees. A full golden colour, this has a rich, yeasty, bready nose. The intense, creamy palate shows lovely balance and good acidity, with attractive butterscotch undertones. One of my favourite new world sparkling wines. Very good/excellent (£11.99 Oddbins)

Bründlmayer Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein Alte Reben 1998, Langenlois, Kamptal, Austria
A sensationally bold interpretation of Riesling. Pretty alcoholic at 14%, but not unbalanced. Beautifully enticing smoky, spicy nose (some botrytis here?). The concentrated, rich palate shows complex notes of lime, spice and honey, with a bone dry finish. Quite delicious. Excellent (Bibendum £18)

Domaine La Rocalière Lirac Cuvée Prestige 1998
This large domaine makes two special Cuvées (in addition to their regular cuvée which is stocked by Majestic): one is a varietal Syrah, and this one is a varietal Mourvédre. It is impressive stuff for the price (I've previously enjoyed the 1995, which was superb). Deep red/black colour with an arresting nose of meaty fruit. Firm, tannic palate with some peppery fruit and chunky, full-on flavours. Nicely balanced. Impressive wine with nice ageing potential. Very good/excellent (£8.95 La Vigneronne)

E-mail me with your recommendations or suggestions at jamie@wineanorak.co.uk