jamie goode's wine blog: A remarkable Roussillon white: Matassa

Saturday, July 18, 2009

A remarkable Roussillon white: Matassa

This is a brilliant wine, but it won't be to everyone's tastes. It's the sort of wine that if I were a sommelier, I'd warn people about. This is because it has some reduction, but for me this is good reduction: matchstick and flint, which I think will set this wine up for a long future, and which adds complexity in this context (and this doesn't 'blow off' - it's still there on day 3 - I think this idea of reduction blowing off with air is not always true). Quite profound.

Matassa Blanc 2007 Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes, France
13% alcohol. 70% Grenache Gris, 30% Maccabeu. This is a serious, complex, backward wine that’s a bit of an acquired taste, but which I think is brilliant. It has a smoky, minerally, almost salty nose with some nuttiness and a bit of burnt match reduction. The palate is dry, savoury and intensely mineral with a long, nutty, broad finish. There’s real focus and intensity to this wine: it’s not at all fat. Just delicious, and all set for an interesting evolution over the next 5–10 years. 93/100 (Les Caves de Pyrene)

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At 5:20 PM, Anonymous Keith Prothero said...

I agree Jamie-----Tom Lubbe rocks !!

At 7:25 PM, Blogger Cuuurd said...

It is super! And, bio dynamic, which is great too!

At 4:00 PM, Blogger JD said...

Isn't Matassa the small Roussillon winery that was visited by Oz and James on their wine trip through France? Seemed like a nice little quality oriented winery from the show. I agree, Grenache Gris is a really interesting grape varietal. I also like the Vielles Vignes Grenache Gris from Roc des Anges in Roussillon. Will see if I can find Matassa's wines in Austria.

At 4:48 PM, Anonymous keith Prothero said...

it is in Calce and Tom Lubbe is married to the daughter of Gauby and uses the same cellar.


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