Trying to find the right wine: Arbois

Had a funny wine evening. Opened four bottles before I could find something I wanted to drink. A Bordeaux that was just blah, a Californian that was sweet and confected, a South African that was clumsily oaked and 15.5% alcohol, and then finally a lovely Arbois. It's the 2002 Cuvee des Geologues from Lucien Aviet (Les Caves de Pyrene c. £13). It's light in colour, with real elegance. I love the sweet, smoothly textured, silky cherry fruit with a subtly earthy, sappy savoury edge. It's a light, expressive sort of wine, but with enough richness and depth to make it a good match for all but the most intense of dishes.