Bardolino

Trying a Bardolino tonight, after flying back from Portugal. TAP in-flight catering is never all that smart (whose short-haul food is?), but they've recently replaced the semi-edible lukewarm ham and cheese sandwich with a grotesque alternative filled with a light-grey, flavourless meat with the texture of damp cardboard. So I'm rescuing my palate with some wine.

It's a Bardolino, and it's not really a red wine, as much as a souped up rose. I guess you could call it a red/rose hybrid. Think Italian Beaujolais, and you aren't far off it. But it's not just frivolous alcopoppy stuff - this is actually quite a 'gastronomic' wine, with good acidity and a bit of tannic grip on the finish.

Guerrieri Rizzardi Bardolino Classico 2007 Veneto, Italy
Light red in colour, this is like a very dark rose more than a red wine. Sweet, bright cherry fruit dominates the nose and palate. It's quite rounded, with a rich texture, a hint of sappiness and just a touch of spicy tannin on the finish. Joyful and quite drinkable, but would work well with a range of foods, too. There's a place for this sort of wine. 87/100 (£7.49 Longford Wines, Davy's wine shop)