jamie goode's wine blog: Elegant Italian and Saumur revisited

Monday, January 07, 2008

Elegant Italian and Saumur revisited

Two wines tonight, one of which I've mentioned on here before - the Les Nivieres Saumur 2005 from Waitrose (4.99) is a lovely wine - essence of Cabernet Franc. It's edgy and a bit green, and I probably scored it a little to highly last time, but I really enjoy it, while acknowledging that Loire Cabernet Franc may not be everyone's cup of tea. I think the sappy, mineralic greenness complements the fruit really well. Tannins are very grippy, which makes this a food wine. But it's an antidote to new world sweetness, and at this price it's hard to beat. It just makes the branded competition look a bit daft.

The second wine is another Les Caves wine (for which I make no apologies), and it's supremely elegant and alive. I can't believe this is Sangiovese. Decanted (I'm using my decanters a lot now) it opens out beautifully with a bit of air. This wine isn't expensive, and it makes some of the Burgundy 2006 prices look a bit silly.
Il Paradiso di Manfredi 2005 Rosso di Montalcino, Italy
From a small estate that practices many biodynamic principles, this Sangiovese is thrillingly alive and elegant. The aromatic nose shows dark cherries with purity and freshness allied with a bit of earthiness. The palate is quite complex with some earthy spiciness undeneath the sweet, pure dark cherry and blackberry fruit. There's a lovely smooth, elegant texture here, that's somewhere between silk and velvet. There's also a hint of forest floor. Finishes quite savoury. A supremely drinkable wine that's hard to resist. It tastes really natural (in a good way). 91/100 (Les Caves de Pyrene)

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At 12:45 PM, Anonymous keith prothero said...

Reckon you should take shares in Les Caves Jamie!!
They certainly appear to have a great selection,and I must check them out when I return.
Is there anyone in particular I should contact?Will be interested to learn whether they may wish to stock our wine,on release.

At 10:22 PM, Anonymous Alex Lake said...

Doug seems to be the man and is often found round these parts...

Doug - do you do tastings? ANy coming up soon?

At 11:59 PM, Anonymous Doug said...

Alex - We do one a year, but normally take a wacky theme rather than do a massive portfolio show. This year we are going to do (probably) a "biodynamic-meets-low-sulphur-wine" event over a couple of days, but not sure when or where!

Are you going to be at NZ ATT next week? Drop by our stand (17) and say hi.

Keith - would love to taste your wine.

At 8:31 AM, Anonymous Keith Prothero said...

Ok Doug will come to see you when back in April.
Our wines will I am sure be rather special.Chris Mullineux is an outstanding winemaker,and so good that Marc Kent no less has appointed him as consultant to the new organic winery Reyneke.
have a look at www.mullineuxwines.com


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