jamie goode's wine blog: Wine with cheese, again

Wednesday, July 11, 2007

Wine with cheese, again

Apparently, the best way to gain weight is to eat at night, just before bed. I remember reading this advice in an interview with Vin Diesel, normally a tough, shaven-headed, six-pack touting hard guy who had to put on weight (and hair) for the excellent Find me guilty. He snacked on ice cream, late at night, and his six pack became a two-tyre.

Now as a person who likes to eat and drink, but doesn't want to become a fat boy, I'm on a continual diet (of sorts). I don't eat as much as I want, most of the time. It's tough, though, because I do love food.

Indeed, one of the things I've noticed about fat people - and I'm not being judgemental here, because I truly believe that beauty resides within, and you should feel good about yourself whether or not you conform to society's shallow obsession with appearance - is that they do enjoy their food. Forget about all this talk concerning metabolic rates and leptin gene status: if you have a friend with a big belly, just watch how much they eat. It's an eye opener.

I digress. Anyway, I have a weakness. I like to snack and drink late at night as I work. I've never had a six-pack, and this is probably why.

Tonight, I'm nibbling on Comte and bread, along with two rather different wines, both of which work quite well with the cheese. The first is the remainder of the Karlsmuhle Riesling Kabinett 2005 I reported on here a few days ago. It's amazing how well these young Rieslings keep in the fridge. Off-dry Rieslings seem to be a good match for quite a broad range of cheeses.

The second is a brilliant young Alentejo (Portugal) red - the 2006 Monte da Peceguina from Malhadinha Nova. It's amazingly vibrant, with ripe, pure summer fruits complemented really well by some grippy tannins and good acidity. I think it's this sweetly fruited, vibrant, juicy character that makes this a red wine that works with slightly harder (but not hard) cheeses like Comte. It's a wine that bridges the new and old worlds.

Some more thoughts on wine and cheese. Wines that rely on tannins for structure work less well with cheese than wines that rely on acidity. This is why whites generally work better with cheese than reds. Unusually for reds, the Peceguina relies more on acidity for structure than tannin; therefore, it works quite well with cheese. Tannins and cheese are a bad match, generally.

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At 4:03 AM, Blogger Paul Tudor said...

I have always been amazed at how well Champagne and cheese go together. I have just come back from a wonderful tasting at Kumeu River (of their fantastic new Chardonnays, but more on that another time) and felt that the cheese course with Pinot Noir did not work at all well. We had a delicious New Zealand goat's cheese that SCREAMED out for Sauvignon Blanc, but there was not a drop in the room...

At 9:43 AM, Anonymous Nigel C said...

you mention keeping the wine in the fridge do you use a vacuvin and if so do you find them any good in your opinion

At 10:10 AM, Blogger Jamie said...

No, I don't use vacuvin, and I don't think it works very well. I just recork the bottles.

At 10:15 AM, Blogger Jamie said...

we had a nice cheese course at the recent Bollinger lunch, and on the basis of this I agree about fizz and cheese.

At 10:42 AM, Anonymous Shon said...

So, any recommended cheese pairings with Pinot Noir, anyone?

At 11:27 PM, Anonymous Doug said...

I wouldn't drink Pinot with any goat's milk or ewe's milk cheeses.

The following matches are possible. The less tannin and higher acidity in the wines the better. The other variable is the condition of the cheese.

Mimolette - rustic Cote de Beaune
Morbier - richer black fruited Cotes de Nuits eg Gevrey
Brie - lightly chilled Alsace Pinot
Pont l'Eveque - big juicy Pinot
Saint-Nectaire - simple fruit driven style of Pinot eg Givry or Savigny

In my opinion the best all-purpose reds wines for cheese are those from Jura and Savoie and many of the cru Beaujolais wines. But semi-sweet and sweet wines (again with plenty of acidity) are a more reliable bet

At 2:48 AM, Anonymous MsRebecca said...

I'm into more of the sweeter wines what would be your best suggestion of say a dessert wine with cheese which wine..?
which cheese..?
several options if possible..


At 11:51 AM, Anonymous Doug said...

Bleu d'Auvergne - simple Monbazillac or Rosette

Comte - Vin Jaune or Oloroso

Fourme d'Ambert - try Banyuls or Jurancon

Livarot - Bonnezeaux, Chaume, Gewurztraminer

Munster - late harvest Tokay Pinot Gris, Gewurz or Coteaux du Layon

Vacherin - a light Barsac or St Croix du Mont

Simple Goat's cheese - Montlouis, Vouvray demi sec or old Savennieres

Valencay - any sweet Chenin

Roquefort - Sauternes, (classically), also Pacherenc, Muscat de Rivaltes

Gorgonzola - Recioto di Soave

Stilton - port, Recioto di Valpol, Maury, aged Rivesaltes

At 9:17 AM, Anonymous Tim said...

Hi Jamie
I've often heard it said that the way to put on weight is to eat late at night, and I know some people who refuse to eat after 6pm for this reason -- and they tend to stay thin.

But I think it is probably a myth that the time of day at which you eat affects your weight: those people who don't eat after 6pm tend to be eating less each day in any case! And those who eat late at night are not normally the kind of people who starve themselves during the day.

As you say, the quantity of food eaten is the most important factor, as anyone who has been to the USA can attest.

So: keep eating the late night cheese!

At 12:39 PM, Anonymous keith prothero said...

Pinotage and cheese---------a match made in heaven.!!

Jamie----it is about time you had smilies on your blog

At 2:37 PM, Blogger foongpc said...

I agree we shouldn't eat late at night. In fact, you should stop eating after 8pm. For one, your metabolic rate dips in the night, also you tend to eat more during the night, and you are not active at night. But there's a lot of people who don't agree. The only way to know if it's true is try it for yourself! Read my post on 5 sure-fire ways to lose weight. If you do make sure you follow the 5 ways, you will definitely lose weight. http://foongpc.blogspot.com/2008/07/how-you-can-lose-weight-if-you-are-not.html


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