jamie goode's wine blog: Enira...what's the point?

Saturday, May 19, 2007

Enira...what's the point?

Bulgarian wines used to be very popular in the UK back in the early 1990s when the Australians weren't quite up to speed. They over-delivered on flavour, were nice and fruity, and didn' t cost much. Since then, for one reason or another, they've become much rarer on supermarket shelves, and have been confined to a bargain basement niche.

But here's an ambitious Bulgarian wine, priced at 8.99. I've tried the previous vintage a couple of times at Waitrose (UK retailer) press tastings, and no less an authority than Jancis Robinson made it her wine of the week. I even recommended it in the Express, although I did comment on the level of ripeness (veering towards jamminess), while commending it for its purity of fruit and concentration. I like Noel Young's take on this wine: he seems to have nailed it. Here's my first look at the 2005, and to be honest I'm going off this wine rapidly: the follow-on vintage seems to be in a similar over-ripe style, but has carried it off less successfully.

Enira 2005 Pazarjik, Bulgaria
14.5% alcohol. Baked, sweet jammy nose already showing some evolution. The palate is ripe, a bit jammy and alcoholic. Sweet and spicy with an earthy edge, but overall it lacks freshness and is a bit hot. I guess they are on the right lines here in that this is much better than anything Bulgarian I've tasted in a long time, but it seems that they've just picked a little too late, losing definition and freshness in the process. Very good 82/100 (8.99 Waitrose)

Much nicer, and also from Waitrose is the wine I'm drinking now:

Frederic Mabileau Les Rouilleres 2005 St Nicolas de Bourgueil, Loire, France
This Cabernet Franc is deep coloured and has a lovely fresh, gravelly nose of dark fruits. It has that distinctive rain on dry pavement sort of 'rocky' aroma I often get in fresh Cabernet Franc, which gives a nice savouriness. On the palate it's brightly fruited and quite grippy, with earthy, spicy tannins and a pleasing herbal edge to the fruit. The dominant theme is bright summer pudding fruits, and it is lovely. Very good+ 89/100 (Waitrose)

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At 8:32 AM, Anonymous Monica Borgas said...

Never heard of this wine before. I might have to give this a shot next time I'm shopping. Thanks for that.

At 8:10 AM, Blogger Ghenadie said...

I would suggest to try Enira 2006 now in 2009. It has developed quite nicely. My description of this wine tasted yesterday with whole lamb roasted in country style oven:
"Excellent wine, carrying the specific characteristics of the terrain, soils and climate of the northern slopes of the Rhodope Mountains. The wine matured in oak barrels, which form its delicate and strong potential. It is a blend of Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot that inspires with dense and sparkling ruby color.
The first thing your nose experiences is the ripe cherry, includes jam, plum and pears, which bring it ripe and affectionate taste. The sensation of ripe berries, kernels and vanilla are virtuosity interlace and well - balanced. The tannins are just implicit and give power and thickness. The wine has a superb length and incomparable aftertaste."
If you find it too "brutal" without food, try Enira Reserva 2006 which will take your breath away!


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