jamie goode's wine blog: What I did in Paris

Wednesday, January 31, 2007

What I did in Paris

On Monday I was speaking at Wine Evolution, but on Tuesday I had a choice: attend the conference sessions, or do some exploring. Tough one. Not. Much as I love the wine business, wine itself, and one of Europe's great capitals has a bigger pull on me. I was late getting up (we'd been out till 0215 the previous night), but this still gave me time to visit a few wine destinations. In particular, I was interested in Cavistes specializing in vins natural, which is a bit of a fad in France.

First stope was Caves Augé (116, Boulevard Hausmann), which is a fantastic old wine shop, crammed full of wines - the majority of which are 'natural' in one form or another. Customer service isn't perhaps their strong point, and the way the wines are arranged makes it hard to browse efficiently. But this can be forgiven for the wonderful stuff they sell. I purchased three bottles only (I could have purchased two cases) - Morgon Vieilles Vignes 2005 Jean-Paul Thevenet, Morgon 2004 Cuvee 3,14 Jean Foillard and Morgon Vieilles Vignes 2004 Guy Breton.

Next I visited La Cremerie/Caves Miard (9, rue des Quatre-Vents - pictured), a charming wine bar and shop located in a tiny old dairy. Here I bought Anjou 2004 Agnes et Remi Mosse, Cheville de Fer 2005 VdP du Loir et Cher O Lemasson and Les Marrons Villages Vin de Table Lot 04 05 Gilles et Catherine Verge.

Then it was off to lunch with philosopher Ophelia Deroy, who specializes in the philosophy of science and has contributed to the forthcoming wine and philosophy volume 'Questions of Taste', which is being edited by her partner Dr Barry Smith (I'm also contributing a paper to this book). We met at Caves Legrand, which is a wonderful caviste and small wine bar. I came away with a solitary bottle, Domaine Richaud Cairanne 2005, but this was only because I was already carrying six, and I was cutting it fine for catching the Eurostar.

There's a lot of fun to be had for wine nuts in Paris; I only scratched the surface. I will be back, I hope, fairly soon.

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At 11:05 PM, Blogger Paul Tudor said...

Tough job Jamie...

Had a similar choice facing me at the Romeo Bragato conference a few months ago in Queenstown. Go skiing OR attend the student poster sessions on a Saturday morning.

As it had been ten years since I last went skiing, I could not resist the opportunity. It was one of the sunniest and most still days Concrete (I mean, Coronet) Peak had ever experienced, apparently!

On another note, I met with Christophe Loisel of Oeno, briefly, at Pinot Noir 2007 in Wellington two days ago. He seems like a remarkably interesting chap. Unfortunately he had not amended his paper on permeability to be relevant to Pinot Noir per se (though it is still very interesting). There were some excellent papers given however, included one by Jim Kennedy of Oregon State on tannins in Pinot. And another really interesting paper and tasting hosted by Pete Godden on brettanomyces, which opened up some very interesting questions!

I am going to try and report on these papers for the next issue of Grapegrower and Winemaker.


At 12:47 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Are the Cremerie people English? Stumbled (as you do in Paris) on this superb wine bar and restaurant called Poissonerie in the St Germain district. Run by an English bloke but also had a shop nearby. Had the best meal had in a long time with some superb SW French wines - a bottle or three of a Faugeres. Laurence

At 10:00 PM, Anonymous Alex Lake said...

Morgon rocks! My favourite Beaujolais by a distance.

Please let us know how those are.

At 12:07 PM, Blogger Jamie said...

Paul, sounds like some interesting stuff at Pinot Noir 07 - I'd have liked to have attended this.

Anon, the La Cremerie dudes aren't English. They're French, but speak good English.

Alex, will report back

At 6:16 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Not being that particular place, did a bit more digging. THe place is Fish la boissonerie, 69, rue de Seine, Paris 6. The shop is La Dernier Goutte, 6, rue Bourbon le Chateau, Paris 6. Laurence


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