It would be easy to come to the wrong conclusion about Zonte's Footstep Shiraz Viognier 2004, from Australia's Langhorne Creek. What I mean to say is that this wine could quickly be dismissed as being too sweet, too big, too ripe and just too tasty. But this would be a mistake. Yes, it is a big wine in a rich, ripe style. It has high alcohol and lots of sweet, dark fruit. But it works. The fruit is still alive, despite the ripeness.

Port is alcoholic, sweet and ripe yet traditionalists accept it because it works. So does this wine. I love the purity of the fruit; the complex spiciness; the fact that on the third night this is still drinking well. One of its great virtues is that the character here comes from the fruit. It isn't tarted up with oak. It's not subtle, but if you are in the mood for it, this wine offers very good value for money at £7.99 from Sainsbury.