Today I have been sorting through some old pictures. They’re really old, some as far back as 1970. I’ve changed a lot since then.

The wine world has changed a lot since then, too. But still, compared with our lifespan, wine has a sense of permanence. It is rooted in the place, and the place is here to stay. We are not.

If I were to plant a vineyard now, it would take me the rest of my life to begin to understand that place – and then it would be for my successors to begin to make the best wines from that site.

This is one of the things that fascinates me about new regions, such as Marlborough and Central Otago. The growers in these regions are still very much learning about the sites that they are custodians of. You get a real sense that they are on a journey, and it is great to watch.