Some fine wines at Ellory, with Texier, Stephan, Foradori, Le Soula, Bosman


Some fine wines at Ellory, with Texier, Stephan, Foradori, Le Soula, Bosman


Had some lovely wines last night with Angela Jordaan and Thor Gudmundsson at the fabulous Ellory (thoroughly recommended: really good small plates style menu and excellent wine list). Here are my notes.

Bosman Optenhorst Chenin Blanc 2014 Wellington, South Africa
From vines planted in 1952, making this South Africa’s fourth oldest Chenin vineyard. Natural ferment, one-third in concrete, rest in older oak. There are some rich toast, peach and pear notes as well as some ripe apple, but there’s also lots of freshness. Fine spicy notes and a hint of raisin in the background, with mineral precision and some more floral characters, too. Just lovely. 95/100

Bosman Twijfeling Cinsault 2015 Wellington, South Africa
From 15 year old bush vines. Lively and fresh with lovely redcurrant and red cherry fruit. Fresh and detailed with lovely fruit and a bit of spiciness. Supple with some grip. Juicy yet has seriousness to it as well as fun. 94/100

Domaine Macle Côtes de Jura 2011 France
This is a blend of Chardonnay and Savaging, with some flor character. Complex, toasty and apply with savoury, sour salty notes and some fine spices. Tangy lemons, apples and pears with complexity and intensity. 94/100

Le Soula La Macération du Soula No 14 Vin de France|
This is skin-contact Vermentino. Full orange colour with a hint of bronze. Lovely, pretty wine with a hint of white pepper and notes of lemons and spices, as well as some ripe apple. The palate is fine, fresh and spicy with a bit of grip. Dry but not drying, with lovely balance to the pear, apple and white peach fruit. Such balance and complexity. 95/100

City on a Hill 2015 Swartland, South Africa
Mostly Chenin with 12% Roussanne and 2% Viognier. Made by Andre Bruins. Very fine and detailed with spice, citrus and pear, as well as a hint of apricot. Lovely delicacy to the fruit with a citrus edge and some spice. Really expressive. 94/100

Foradori Fontanasanta Manzoni Bianco 2015 Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Italy
Very fresh and fine with a hint of reduction and lovely fine spiciness. Lemony and pure with some pear and tangerine. Real finesse and purity here. Just lovely. 93/100

JM Stephan Serine 2015 Vin de France
From Condrieu, this has no added sulphites. Inky dark and intense with ripe, rich blackberry and black cherry fruit, with some grippy tannins. This is floral and exotic with real structure, and complex notes of roast meat, iodine, blood and black pepper. A remarkable wine. 95/100

Eric Texier Brézème 2014 Northern Rhône, France
Supple, fresh and pure with lively black cherry and raspberry fruit. Supple and pure with real elegance. Very fine and pure with sleek black fruits. Smooth and fine with lovely focus. 93/100

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wine journalist and flavour obsessive

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  1. Have 2 bottles of the Foradori Fontanasanta Manzoni Bianco in the cellar. Both have wax caps.

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