Continuing my northern Rhone series, I’m sticking with St Joseph. It’s an appellation with a reputation for inconsistency, but there are clearly some very good terroirs here. This is a cracking wine: fresh, natural, bright and edgy. Delas are a negociant who seem to be on good form at the moment.

Delas Freres St Joseph ‘Les Challeys’ 2008
13% alcohol. Lovely stuff. Fresh, bright, natural, peppery and fine. Lovely cherry fruit and good acidity, as well as nice grippy structure. It’s quite light and elegant with lovely northern Rhone Syrah character. Fresh and vital, this is drinking superbly now and will probably drink well for another five, with its cherry and raspberry fruit and delicious pepperiness. 93/100 (£14.99 Sainsbury’s)