I like Graciano. It’s a red grape variety, grown principally in Rioja, where it is used as a blending component. It’s a high quality grape capable of making ageworthy wines, but it’s low yielding, and so not so popular with the large factory-like bodegas.

This example is from Navarra, and it’s deliciously fresh and lively, with good acidity. I love the freshness and structure here, and the oak is present, playing a supporting role only. Great value at £12.

Ochoa 8A Serie Mil Gracias Graciano Single Vineyard 2008 Navarra, Spain
Very fresh and vibrant, with supple black cherry and blackberry fruit, supported by good acidity, some structure, and a real freshness. There are undertones of herbs, tea leaves and chocolate, plus a bit of supporting oak, but it’s not at all jammy or over-ripe, with lovely definition and focus. 91/100 (£11.99 Hennings Wine, UK agent is PLB)

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