This was a remarkable Albariño, made from a one-hectare plot of vines that’s over 200 years old. It’s made by Gerardo Méndez of Do Ferreiro, who farms 10 hectares, split into numerous small plots, more or less organically. This Cepas Vellas is from a hillside vineyard with sandy granitic soils. The grapes come in with around 10% botrytis, which adds some richness and complexity. The vines have to be seen to be believed: the local way of training them is on an elevated pergola, so by the time they get to 200 years old they are like trees, forming an imposing, thick permanent structure. This wine is fermented with natural yeasts and doesn’t see any oak.

Do Ferreiro Albariño Cepas Vellas 2009 Rias Baixas, Spain
Complex nose of toast, spice, ripe apples, dried herbs and some fennel. The palate combines nuts and minerals with keen acidity. It’s dense and rich with peach, citrus and pear fruit. A really complex, thought-provoking wine that shows that Albariño isn’t all about light, fresh whites. It has more to show than this. 94/100

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