I’m in the Loire, with Tim Atkin, Sam Harrop and Annette Scarfe. We’re here to judge Loire Sauvignon, and last night we were joined by some Loire growers for a nice dinner at Le Bon Laboureur in Chenonceau.
The food was first rate, but what I found really exciting were the wines. The Loire is a diverse and interesting region, and this was illustrated by what we drank.
Jacky Blot La Taille aux Loups Triple Zero NV Montlouis, Loire
One of a pair of sparkling wines from Jacky Blot. This one is zero dosage, and it’s lovely. Taut, crisp and intense with lovely precision and some herb, apple and pear notes. Nicely complex with good acidity and a dry finish. 91/100
Jacky Blot La Taille aux Loups Brut Tradition NV Montlouis, Loire
Apple, pear and citrus fruit dominate this attractive sparkling wine. Taut and precise with good acidity and lemony fruit on the finish. Attractive stuff. 90/100
Domaine Huet Le Haut Lieu Vouvray Sec 2010 Loire
Taut citrus, peach and pear fruit. Perfumed and bright, with lovely depth and good acidity. Just a hint of sweetness adds richness to this otherwise dry wine. Brilliant. 92/100
La Chapiniere Touraine Sauvignon 2010 Loire
Rich, dense and precise with nice richness to the fruit and good acidity. Great concentration here: superb complexity and intensity. 92/100
Domaine de la Chevalerie Peu Muleau 2009 Bourgeuil, Loire
A really vivid Loire red. Stinky, savoury and medicinal with a bit of brett and some reduction, but it carries these characters very well. I like the lively blackberry and raspberry fruit with its spicy framing. Challenging but delicious. 90/100
Joguet Les Charmes Chinon 2009 Loire
Fresh, vibrant and floral (violet) with sweet cherry and berry fruit. Accessible and smooth yet with a bit of gravelly grip. A seductive, stylish expression of Chinon. 91/100
One thought on “Dinner at Le Bon Laboureur, with nice Loire wines”
I haven’t been there since my first family holiday abroad when I was 10. Later on in the week we stayed at a hotel which my parents knew from years previously; it had picked up a Michelin star in the interim. That week started the food obsession, joined by the wine 15 years later. Does Le Bon Laboureur still have a tank full of shortly-to-be-deaded lobsters? And football-sized inflated omelettes? Happy, *happy* memories…