Following on from my glowing review of the Gassier 946 rosé, here are a couple more Provence examples worthy of serious attention. They are from super-ambitious Château d’Esclans, who make the world’s most expensive rosé, and probably the second most expensive, too. These new releases from them are quite lovely. Is it time to start taking pink wines more seriously? I think so.
Château d’Esclans Rock Angel Rosé 2014 Côtes de Provence, France
14% alcohol. This is the first year of this re-brand of what used to be the estate wine from Esclans. It’s aromatic, fresh and floral with lovely subtle herbal tones and notes of raspberry, tangerine and cherry. There’s elegance here, and also a bit of spicy warmth. Very textural, allying richness and freshness. 92/100
Château d’Esclans Les Clans Rosé 2013 Côtes de Provence, France
14% alcohol. Salmon pink with a hint of orange. Fresh, elegant and refined with lovely texture to the pear, spice and toast flavours. Quite warm and seamless with faint hints of cherries and strawberries, but this isn’t particularly fruit driven. Sophisticated but not intrusive barrel ferment characters, as well as fine fennel and herb notes. It’s quite hard to describe, because this isn’t a typical rosé, but it’s beautiful. 93/100
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