Had a lovely evening last night with a small group at 67 Pall Mall, the wine-friendly club that opened last year. It was my first time at 67 Pall Mall, and they seem to get most things right: the space is beautiful, the wine list excellent, the food spot on and the Zalto glassware just astonishingly good. Service, though, was a bit patchy, and I’m no friend of the insistence that gentlemen must wear jackets at all times when in the club. That seems a bit retrograde. And the wine list is on iPads, but they don’t seem to have enough of them, and one of the benefits of this, you’d think, is that out of stock wines could be removed (we ordered one to find out there was none left).

We had some lovely wines. First of all, a couple of by the glass selections. Mullineux Schist Chenin 2014 was really smart (maybe a little warm, though), and I really liked Gavin Chanin’s Sanford & Benedict Chardonnay 2013, which was incredibly refined and Burgundian. One of my companions, a skilled blind taster, had it as a Premier Cru Puligny, and I can see why.

Then some Condrieu: Francois Villard’s Terrasses du Pilat 2014. This is a stunning wine: such an open, balanced, aromatic expression of Condrieu. And good value, too.

Talking of value, the Champagne Vazart Coquet Grand Cru Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs NV is quite beautiful, and really well priced. Served out of the Zalto sweet wine glasses, of course.

I was really impressed by the next wine: the Pignan 2008 from Rayas. This is a thrilling expression of Grenache with a truly Burgundian elegance to it. Such finesse and purity. This was a real star.

And to finish with, something great from California. The Ridge Montebello 1989, which has developed into a beautifully elegant maturity, but there’s no hurry to drink this up. Really fine. It’s always great when famous wines like these deliver.

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