It was my birthday. And I was in Lyon. And at short notice we managed to get space at the bar at Cafe Sillon, which I’d heard a lot about. It exceeded expectations: the set menu was sensitively cooked and very imaginative, with a couple of options for each course (for a small place like this, offering fewer options is a great idea). But it was the wine list that I was here for: one of those lists where it hurts only being able to order just a couple of bottles. Still, we drank well, revisiting the Grands Teppes from Ganevat that we’d enjoyed back in June, and then smashing a beautifully pure natural northern Rhône.
It was a fine evening, and the whole experience was very special.
Domaine Jean-François Ganevat Les Grands Teppes Vieilles Vignes 2013 Jura, France
An impeccable, thrilling Chardonnay from Jura star Ganevat. Intensely vivid, mineral, spicy and focused with incredible acid structure. So complex with vital citrus fruit, a hint of apple and pear, and fine spicules. So intense and linear. Profound. 96/100
Dard & Ribo Crozes-Hermitage 2015 Northern Rhône, France
Vivid, intense and peppery with grippy structure under the sleek, pure raspberry and black cherry fruit. Focused and intense with lovely typicity. Essence of cool climate Syrah with grainy, grippy structure. 94/100
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