Opened this pair. One from South Africa and one from New Zealand. Both biodynamic. Both pretty compelling, and perhaps not what you’d immediately expect from Sauvignon Blanc. This is a variety that can be serious, but doesn’t have to be. It’s almost as if, though, that by putting Sauvignon Blanc on the bottle, you are making a contract with the consumer that you will be delivering a certain style of wine. And these wines aren’t typical Sauvignon, but they are really lovely. Increasingly, we are seeing the emergence of serious Sauvignon, with ageing potential and real interest, and I love it.
Churton Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Marlborough, New Zealand
14% alcohol. From a 22 hectare vineyard in the Waihopai Valley, this is a really textural Sauvignon with crystalline citrus fruits and hints of pepper and minerals. Dry and taut with some generous texture to the bracing, limey fruit. Lovely purity here, with some pear richness and spicy minerality. 92/100 (£13.80 Tanners)
Waterkloof Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Stellenbosch, South Africa
14% alcohol. Rich, appealing, yet restrained pear and white peach fruit. Rich, textural palate with nice breadth. Fine-grained crystalline fruits here and fine spiciness, with just a hint of green pepper in the background. Ripe apple notes, too. Lovely complexity and finesse to this wine. 92/100
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