I have just been in the Netherlands, presenting a talk and tasting to wine professionals here over two days, with the same 10 wines both days. I met some really great people and enjoyed talking about organic/biodynamic/sustainable/natural/authentic wine. It was also nice to look at the wines over two days. Interestingly, the wines seemed all to be just a little better on Tuesday than they were on Monday. I can’t think of an explanation. We started with these two lovely whites. Both completely different, and both very interesting expressions of place.

Vincent Carême Vouvray Sec 2013 Loire, France
Very fresh, keen and lively with very pure apple and lemon fruit, as well as hints of straw. The acidity is high but nicely integrated. A striking, bracing dry Vouvray showing Chenin at its freshest. It’s quite edgy, though, and really needs food. 93/100

Jean-François Ganevat Grusse en Billat Chardonnay 2012 Jura, France
1960 planting on schist and marl. Made with no added sulfites, but this is fresh and pure and not at all oxidative. Complex, nutty and linear with a really mineral personality and some nice creamy texture as a foil to the fresh, detailed citrussy fruit. A hard wine to capture in words, but quite lovely. Verging on the profound. It will be interesting to watch this develop if you are lucky enough to be able to get hold of some. 94/100

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