Occasionally I taste a wine with no idea of where it’s sourced from or how much it costs. This is one of those wines, and when I found out it was an inexpensive supermarket wine, I was stunned. So I tasted it again, from a bottle that had been open two days, and it was still lovely. So this is a hearty recommendation, if you have any love for Loire reds. I know they aren’t everyone’s cup of tea, but when they are good they are thrilling, life-enhancing wines. And this is stunning value for money.

Domaine des Ormes Saumur 2014 Loire. France 
13% alcohol. This co-operative made wine (Vignerons de Saumur) is from Pascal and François Champion. From one block, and mostly Cabernet Franc, on a clay, chalk, sandstone soil. Floral, aromatic black cherry, herb and forest floor nose. The concentrated palate shows sweet, textured, multilayered black fruits with green herb and pepper notes. Generous, a bit grippy, slightly sappy and beautifully balanced. Essence of Loire Cabernet Franc. 92/100 (£7.49 Co-op)