This is a lovely, complex, detailed and – in some senses – difficult wine from Benedicte and Stephane Tissot in the Jura. It’s aged for 30 months in barrel under a layer of flor, and was bottled in October 2011. Remarkable stuff. Like strong cheese, it’s not for everyone, but I think it’s hauntingly beautiful and worthy of deep contemplation.

Tissot Savagnin 2008 Jura, France
Amazing nose is complex and lively with ripe apples, citrus fruit, a hint of cider and some tangy, nutty notes. The powerful, tangy palate is very citrussy but also very nutty with a savoury twist, and notes of bread, spice and apples. There’s even some tannic structure. So complex and minerally with keen acidity. 94/100

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