Gauby is the domaine that put the Fenouilledes in France’s Roussillon on the fine wine map. The wines are brilliant, and because of their fame, they’re also (alas) quite expensive. On a recent tasting, this bottle really took my eye. It’s a skin-contact Muscat, a variety that seems to respond pretty well to this sort of fermentation. And it’s made with no added sulfur dioxide at all. Not to be confused with the red ‘La Roque’, which is an old vine Grenache.
Domaine Gauby La Roque Blanc 2011 IGP Pays des Cotes Catalanes, France
Whole-bunch Muscat fermented on skins for 10 days. 11.5% alcohol. Amazingly perfumed with pear, apricot, spice and grapes. Precise, fine, subtle palate is spicy and peppery with lovely pear and apricot fruit. Fresh and showing real finesse, this is an utterly delicious wine. 94/100
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Is it Muscat’s simplicity which makes it suit skin contact?