More Jura joy. There’s so much good stuff coming from this region, and it’s usually from producers taking a more natural approach. This was drunk last night looking out over the sea at Golden Bay, at the top of South Island, New Zealand. It was mesmerising.

Domaine Ganevat Les Grands Teppes Vieilles Vignes Chardonnay 2013 Côtes du Jura, France
12% alcohol. Vines planted in 1919. Slightly cloudy pale yellow colour. Lovely acid structure here with bright lemony fruit and a lovely crystalline quality. There’s a delicious fine spiciness that mingles perfectly with the fresh acidity. There are secondary notes of mandarin, apricot, ripe apple and green tea, with some richness (a bit of sugar?) evident in tension with the vital, fresh core of lemony fruit. Very fine and expressive, and amazingly drinkable as well as being quite serious. Not a perfect wine, but a beautiful one. 95/100

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