This is a really interesting wine from Wind Gap, an exciting Californian winery making elegant, balanced wines.

It’s from Trousseau Gris, a rare colour mutation of the red Trousseau, which is the same as Portugal’s Bastardo. The red version makes pale-coloured, fragrant, sappy reds (in Portugal it is one of the Port varieties, and is rarely seen on its own). In California, Trousseau Gris used to be known as Gray Riesling. There’s still a bit found as part of old field blend vineyards, but apparently the only varietal block left is a 10 acre plot in the Fanucchi Wood Road Vineyard in the Russian River Valley. This is where this Wind Gap wine comes from.

Three concrete tanks of this wine were made, and it’s really compelling. Roberson stock it in the UK.

Wind Gap Trousseau Gris 2013 Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
12.25% alcohol. A really intriguing wine. Spicy, mineral, herby, slightly smoky lemon and mandarin fruit with delicate acidity. Some rich grapey notes, too. Very fine and expressive with a bright personality. Finishes bright and a bit herby. Such a detailed wine with lovely fresh fruitiness. 93/100 (£23.95 Roberson)