When white Burgundy is good, it is peerless. Well, almost, as the recent Kumeu River tasting showed.

This is a good one. It’s from Thierry and Pascale Matrot, and it’s a village-level Meursault that over-delivers. Shame it isn’t a bit cheaper, but that is modern Burgundy for you.

Thierry et Pascale Matrot Meursault 2012 Burgundy, France
Aromatic and quite intense with toast, pear, ripe apple, spices and mealy notes. The palate is powerful and direct with lemons, pear and spice, as well as a hint of creaminess. Lovely complexity and balance for a village wine, showing finesse, purity, perfume and good acidity. 93/100 (£37 Laithwaites)

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